Two weeks ago I replaced the rear shocks and now its time for the front struts. I looked at the Hayes manual expecting to see something about using a spring compression (which I have), but there was nothing (they suggest to use a floor jack to compress the spring). This job looks fairly easy to do. Mined you, I will need to get the front end aligned when I'm done, but the struts themselves "look" fairly easy. What am I missing? It can't be easy! Will I be needing any special tools? When I release the front end anti-roll connecting link is that thing under load? Any special tricks when removing the strut from the steering knuckle? I'd like to retain all my fingers!

Thanks,

Phil
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'86 740T Sedan 235k (RIP), '96 850T Wagon 80k (sold), '95 850T Wagon 103k (current)

I just replaced my struts and shocks about 6 weeks ago. The hardest part was getting the damned swaybar link off the strut--the cute little torx insert gets full of rust and is un-usable. You should have a mechanics mirror handy so you can get a wrench on the flat spot on the back of the swaybar link (not easy because of the rubber boot). Once I got it on, I clamped it with a vice-grip so I could turn the nut on the front side. Use PB Blaster liberally!

The rest is fairly easy--the only reason for the floor jack in this process is to take the load off the strut, just like when you remove the shocks in back. Just be sure you have a heavy-duty spring compressor as Volvo springs are big. I got mine from Auto Zone and it worked fine. Also, be sure to put a piece of metal, plastic or cardboard on top of the CV boot so you don't damage it while you are horsing the strut out and in.

Be sure you replace the spring seat while you are in there. The strut mount is also a candidate, but not manditory (fairly inexpensive at FCP Groton).

I put in Bilstein HD--yes, a more firm ride, but much better control and I am absolutely delighted with the ride.

I did this job a year ago at 100K miles. You do need a spring compressor. You may not need an alignment after this job, since only toe-in is adjustable onm this model, and unless you also change tie rods (which I did as well), you have nothing to align.

From my experience, the struts themselves were still good at 100K, but spring seats and strut mounts were worn.

Even though it "may not" need an alignment, it's best to be on the safe side and do one. I like my tires to last as long as possible.
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1998 S70 T5 Emarald Green Metallic, 2004 V70 2.5T Ruby Red, Previous Owner of Black '94 850 Turbo Wagon

I can't believe they don't mention a spring compressor. There is some torque on the swaybar end-link but it's not going to kill you, although the springs could. Check this out for a how-to:
http://members.shaw.ca/heeeeee/strut/
regards,
MIJ
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1998 S70 T5 Emarald Green Metallic, 2004 V70 2.5T Ruby Red, Previous Owner of Black '94 850 Turbo Wagon