So, I found or have seen at least three methods to get the front axle out.

1. Volvospeed - remove the two control arm bolts. Swing hub away from shaft.
2. Electronic manual advertised here - my interpretation is remove bottom end of sway bar link, detach lower ball joint at control arm, and "twist Macpherson strut to remove", which I guessed means pull and twist the whole assembly to pull the hub away from the axle (insteaad of removing the strut from the car which obviously requires more).
3. My indie's technique - remove two bolts through Macpherson strut and (??) tie rod end - swing hub down to remove shaft from hub.

I tried #2 first, and got stuck at removing the bottom ball joint. Loosened the bolt and nut, no problem, but I could't figure a way to pry the joint downward to release the tapered shaft. The joint was bent at an acute angle and there was nothing to pry against.

My indie's technique #3 looked like a PITA - I remember he barely was able to get the nut on the first few threads, and luckily he had an air wrench to proceed in pulling it up. I think he uses that method because either it is quickest for him or he simply has always done it that way.

So, I used Volvospeed's technique #1, which worked OK except getting the control arm back in requires fighting against the sway bar and strut spring simultaneously while aligning the arm. I was tempted to disconnect the bottom of the sway bar link, but was afraid the strut spring might push down too much. I think that it would be easier to do this a second time now that I see the trick.

So my QUESTION is, what technique have others used, and also, does anyone know if removing the sway bar link in method #1 would be an effective step, or cause trouble? I will have to take this apart again - any advice would be appreciated. Don

1. Remove the wheel
2. Remove the big ass nut on the axle
3. Remove the ball joint nut and bolt
4. Remove the link rod where it attaches to the strut assy.
5. Pull the ball joint down out of the steering knuckle, you will never pry this joint down and out. Put a shot of lube into it and then with a firm, straight downward pull, yank that bitch out of there. It may take a couple of goes but more often then not it will yank straight out. If not then tap it back up with a hammer, a little more lube, and give it another mighty pull, repeat until it is free.
6. Remove the outer tie rod from the knuckle.
7. Hit the end of the axle with a dead blow and see if it budges, if not then I recommend the correct tool for this. The correct tool is made by OTC, among others, and it bolts to the rotor in three places like the wheel does and it positions a threaded shaft right over the end of the axle. Screw this bugger in until it pushes the axle through the hub.
8. The axle is now free, push the hub/strut assembly off to one side and pull the axle out of the backside.
9. Right side axle, just remove the retainer for the support bearing at the back of the block and pull it free from the trans. Left side, get a big ass screwdriver or, better yet, the correct factory tool and pop it loose from the side of the trans. If using a big screwdriver be careful not to crack the case.

Mark

OK Mark, it sounds like the electronic manual method. I have one question - I was in a store today browsing the Chilton's, I saw them using a puller to pull (actually I think push from the threaded end) the 850 tie rod end out. Do you recommend such a tool, of can this joint be carefully pried apart without ruining the boot? Thanks - and thanks for the info on the other joint. Don

The BFH is the preferred tool in every shop I have ever worked in. Turn the wheel out so you can get a clear shot at it and then take a nice sized hammer, I like a 32 oz., and hit the knuckle where it goes through. Smack it really hard once or twice and it should pop right out. After better than a decade of working in Volvo dealers I had never seen those tools you speak of until I went to work at BMW where they were used on rare occasions.

Sounds like the electronic manual method huh? That is funny because it has little or nothing to do with it, simply the way I do them. Taking the hub/knuckle loose from the strut sounds like a nightmare indeed. The only thing I might have glossed over is to remove the connector for the ABS sensor as it will usually keep you from stretching the strut assembly out of the way.

Good luck,
Mark

Hi Mark - What I meant is that the steps you use, of the three methods I asked about, seem *most similar* to those in the the file that MIJ has been advertising here. A second method, removing the hub/knuckle loose from the strut, is the way I saw the indie do it, and you as an informed source have confirmed my suspicion it is for people who are into pain. The last method is the one I was able to make work at the time, removing the control arm frame bolts.

Here is a quote from MIJ's file:
[Remove link arm from anti-roll bar. Remove nuts securing suspension arm to ball joint. Remove suspension arm from ball joint. Twist and remove MaPherson strut.]

From what you wrote, this sounds similar to your method if I understand it. I was confused when they said "Remove nuts" because there is a bolt/nut securing the bottom joint, so I thought maybe they meant take off the tie rod end ball joint also. "Remove Macpherson strut" now I see doesn't mean literally take it out. I understand the clear steps you gave me (and clarification on this last ball joint question - my first thought was hit the end of the stupid thing with a hammer).

I in no way at all meant to question the methods of an experienced mechanic and FWIW am not looking to question "what is the best technique", just a method that works. A method is ok, but much better with tips from people like you. Thanks again. Regards, Don

Did not think you were questioning me at all, I just found that it was humorous that my techinque was so similar to the file you mentioned.

As far as the nuts go it could be a case of they did the review on a first year model car and never redid it. On the first year model cars the ball joints are fastened to the control arm with studs and nuts so that if you removed the nuts you could drop the arm out of the way much the same way as pulling the ball joint down out of the knuckle.

Remember when you are using the hammer technique to pop a tie rod end or ball joint of the same design(not the 850 design) that you want to hit the outside of the piece that it goes through and not the threaded shaft in any way.

Mark

I have a '98 s70 which I'm assuming has the same sway bar link as yours. The best way to remove and install the sway bar link is to remove both left and right sway barlink while the car is on the ground. Having both tires on the same level will not put pressure on the other side. This will make it easy for you to remove the nut. Turn the tire wheel inward so you can acess the link.

Thanks - this was my first front end work, and I learned about the other wheel affecting the one I am working on. I'll have to go look - you can get to the link end (I assume lower) with the car on the ground? I'll be doing the link on the other side and I will try your tip. Don

Once you get the both sway bar links disengaged on the ground, you can jack up the car and work on the axle. After removing the 2 bolts from the bottom control arm, you can use a rope to supend it and swing the strut so you can access the axle. It is not necessary to remove the lower ball joint to remove the axle.

There are two topics in your post. You are saying the link nut is accessible on the ground. As far as axle R & R, the lower ball joint removal is in the other procedure, the one Mark uses and the one I originally tried. I may try that next time, or if I'm chicken I'll just pull the two frame bolts of the control arm again. The other thing I am reading between the lines is that you do suggest the additional step I originally asked about - removing the link so that the axle doesn't get pushed ahead, which makes reconnecting the control arm to the frame a PITA. Thanks for the help. Don

Regardless what option you decide, disconnecting both sway bar links while the car is on the ground will make the job easier. After they are disconnected, you can choose the best option for you.

When I did mine, I used option 1 where you disconnect the 2 lower control arm bolts attached to the frame. I attached a bungee cord to the contol arm so it does get too twisted and damage the lower ball joint.

Before everything else, remove the center cap of the tire wheel and reinstall wheel to the car. You will need a extra long breaker bar. This process to me was the hardest. I had to spray some PB Blaster to the nut threads for a few days to loosen it up. It helps if someone steps on the brakes while you turn the axle nut so it does not put too much pressure on the transmission. It is a good idea to replace the axle nut when you are done with the job.

I replaced the sway bar link on the other side of the car tonight using your technique. It worked great, and like everything else there are pluses and minuses. I was happy I had a friend's 15mm box wrench available, because with the car on the ground I couldn't get a socket on the lower nut. After that, wow, popped right out by hand. On this subject, there are a few wrenches I need to add to my toolbox with this car I have never needed: the 15mm box, 16mm and 18mm in any configuration for those control arm bolts/nuts, sway bar link, and ball joints.

So I didn't need my big as$ prybar - kind of disappointing. Just kidding - I learned something new and appreciate your technique. As far as the BA nut, I put my spare on to expose the nut and drove to a friend with an air wrench with my brand new 36mm socket. It took quite a few shots to get it loose. I am not disappointed I didn't use the bar on that one. I did have the same technique you use ready to go, but didn't want a challenge for the first step of the job. It also took several blows with a large hammer to break the axle loose from the hub. Happy tooling.

Guys, I always have the benefit of a hoist and air tools but I think that you will find that if you loosen the link rods where they attach to the struts that it will increase the clearance where it attaches to the sway bar and make it much easier to remove on the bottom end. Just a thought.

Mark