The time is almost here and am wanting to do it. Time is not a problem and tools should not be either.

dick

Ok guys,
I got the engine out last Sunday without dropping the subframe or removing transmission! I used a main comealong attached to my shop's small overhead bridge crane. I used a smaller comealong on the PS bracket and a small wire rope sling on the rear bracket and hooked these to the large comealong. Since the engine is normally tipped towards the rear, I had to pull the engine forward and gently pry the transmission away from the engine being carefull not to damage the starter ring/timing wheel. I also used a screwdriver slipped into a hole on the rear of the bellhousing to keep the torque converter in place. Another set of hands would have helped and will be there when it goes back in. If Volvo engineers had allowed about a half inch more on the timing belt side of the unibody it would have made it a piece of cake!
The real trick will be getting it back in so I'll keep ya posted!
JR

Good going! Keep us informed how it goes. I still have not attempted it. Have to do oil pan O rings next as am getting some lifter click and clack. Not sure if I have enough guts to do the RMS, but will see.

dick

I started this evening on my leaky rear main replacement. Had a bud who does automotive work as a side business take a look beforehand with the car on the lift. We both agreed it's worth a shot to simply try to pull the motor straight on out. If not I'll set it back down and pull it with the AT attached. I'll try to do a little work every evening after work and hope to have the block on the shop floor by the end of the weekend. I'll keep you all posted....
JR

Hi Dick,

I recently did this on my '95 850T. I mostly followed the procedure in the Volvo shop manuals (echoed in the Haynes manual) which was generally to support the engine, drop the sub-frame on the drivers side, (loosen on the passenger side,) lower the engine down, and pull the transmission off. Rather than the transmission jack, I landed it onto a 2x12 set up as a fulcrum. Crude, but it worked. It also helped to have an assistant who also knows cars.

I replaced the transmission output shaft seals too, not because they were leaking, but because I had the tranny out and it's easy to do when it's out. Also changed the fluid.

I ended up building an engine hoist out of lumber with a long threaded rod to lower the engine with. Crude, but reasonably effective. Ends of a 4x4 rested on 2x4's set on the inside of the fender by the top of the strut towers.

Hardest part was getting at the bolts on the rear engine mount - just difficult to reach and get a wrench on properly. If you've done other cars, this won't be anything particularly new.

A lot of the induction system (air filter, induction pipes, etc.) all had to come off to be out of the way.

Only problem I have is that somewhere in the process, I developed a vacuum leak that I'm still trying to track down. It keeps setting my Check Engine Light with a 3-1-5 trouble code (EVAP). Many of the hoses were getting old and cracked, so I'm suspecting it's one of them. (Tried to replace them, but the dealer didn't stock the hose, and NAPA was less help...) One of these days I'll find it...

Good luck!

Roger
'95 854T 173k
'87 245 265k+

My wife's 93 850 is now leaving an oil trail. I've already resealed the oil pan to no avail. It looks like most everyone is saying to drop the engine/tranny with the subframe. I have a two post lift & hoist but I want to do it the easiest way possible. I read somewhere recently (I thought it was my Haynes manual but I can't find that wording tonight) that the engine can be separated from the automatic tranny and pulled the conventional way out the top. Looks possible despite being rather tight in the bay. Anyone tried this method with an A/T car?
Thanks
John

From what I've read in a few manuals, they say something like lowering the subframe for which the engine and tranny are mounted on, and then removing the tranny at that point thus allowing a little more space to move around. I suppose the vehicle's frontend should then be SECURELY lifted some. Klaus has it.

Because I have a minor leak issue that has me being more cautious with oil selection (need not go there), I have been pondering the task. I have the tools and equipment, but this is my daily driver. I also ponder if new seals would be needed for the transmission at the axle output locations - FWD systems are new to this fix-it individual. I suppose because one is there, it would be good insurance.

Good luck and keep us posted!

Most of us do not have a lift to work under, so it gets a little harder. Best way to do it is to remove the left front wheel and all of the suspension bits, and then drop the tranny. Much harder than it sounds.
You have backing, but take pics! and copious notes!

Klaus
--
1975 164E running? 1995 854T sweet 1998 V70 R work horse

Should know this weekend if it is needed or not. Have a lot of suspension to do including IPD swaybars and front spring rubber top parts.

dick

I had it replaced at the dealer 3 years ago........I think the mechanic almost commited suicide! I don't think he made a dime off the book rate. Said 10 hours and he took 4 days. Got the car cack with the speedo disconnected and the cruise not working. 890.00. He did fix the problem though.

I've seen a number of posts here about RMS replacement so you could do a search. A bear of a job for sure as the transmission needs to be dropped. I think I read the most important item as a tranny jack and a lift would be reeeeeal nice vs a creeper. I don't envy you! Let us know how it goes.

bl

The factory way to do it involve supporting the engine, dropping the subframe on the trans side, going in with a special fixture on the trans jack and pulling the trans out.

Most guys I know support the engine, drop the entire subframe completely out of the way, use the trans jack adapter or not, if they run without they will typically use a big piece of squishy foam between the jack and the trans and then use one of those ratcheting nylon straps to secure the trans to the jack. This is the method I use and it works very well but unless you have an engine support fixture you are s.o.l. I have seen other guys on the various boards that have advocated pulling the engine complete to change it out. To me this seems extreme but then again I am a proffesional with and entire shop at his disposal. I have seen some crafty ways to support the engine on line as well. The problem with pulling just the trans I would think would be getting the car far enough into the air that you could pull it out. It is a frigging nightmare anyway you look at it. Let us know how it turns out or where to send the flowers after you drop the motor on your head, just kidding (I hope).

Mark

Mark:

As always, I appreciate your input. I have pulled a lot of transmissions but always RWD, starting with a rope and tackle on my 30 Model A. This is a different beast for sure. I do have the engine hanger which holds, raises and lowers the engine according to need. Guess I sill need the squishy foam to set it onto my transmission jack.

Just finished fixing a turbo oil feed line leak. Now a torn boot on the axel, and the AC compressor seized. Fortunately Hancock industries can furnish compressor and FCP the axel.

dick