I had the PVC system cleaned/replaced on my 1995 850 my kids use. The car has 160,000 miles and after the (expensive) PVC system cleaning/repair the sound went away for about a week. The car now ticks at startup and the sound goes away 2-3 minutes after start up. I'm trying to be careful and make sure nothing was missed. The dealer did the PVC system (did I saw expensive:) and they have been good with getting fixes done right the first time. Is there another area that should be looked at that dealers don't do when the PVC system is cleaned/replaced? I have seen some pics on the web of the oil pump in the pan that looked completely cooked with thick oil. Do the dealers drop and clean the pan when the PVC system is done?

The car has no other know issues and has been reliable for 160,000 miles so I want to make sure I am proactive on the issue. Thanks!

That ticking is from the hydraulic lifters and no harm if the noise goes away in a few minutes.

You might want to start changing your own oil and switch to synthetic 10W30. The dealer probably used regular oil and the engine is a little dirty.

No, dropping the oil pan will NOT fix this problem. Besides, it is quite expensive to do so.

Klaus
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Why are Volvos so endearing? Its just a car.

Thanks for the info Klaus. I figured so much but wanted to make sure the dealer didn't miss something the Volvo community considered a normal part of a proper PVC job.

The dealer runs regular 5W30 in the car so that is what I top off the car with at the rate of about 1/2 quart every 2000 miles. What is teh benefit of the synthetic oil? I always thought it was for high heat and benefited high reving sports cars like Porsche, Ferrari and speciality V8's, etc.

I know some cars get leaks with synthetic oils. Are there any issues with the finer oil "molecules" of synthetic in these 5 cylinder engines? And what if any brands do you recommend.

You are correct in your premise that higher revving engines need better quality oils that do not break down with the additional heat. But, the Volvo engine is a high revving engine that people drive around town at 1500-2000 rpm. The valves clean themselves of deposits when the revs are high enough to allow the valves to 'rotate', usually above 2200 rpm.

The synthetic oils do not loose their viscosity over time, allowing more miles between oil changes. Because of the better quality, the engines stay cleaner and leave fewer deposits on the cams and other parts that get 'sprayed' with oil. Synthetic also keeps the PCV system cleaner.

Using a 5W30 is quite good, especially in colder climates where 10W gets a little thick in the winter time.

The only time switching from regular to synthetic oil presents a problem is when the owner never revs up the engine or fails to change the oil frequently, allowing sludge to build up and cover the seals. The seals tend to dry up under the sludge and wear out. The synthetic might clean out the sludge over time and then the seals will leak.

But leaving the sludge in place is also detrimental. It will close oil passageways in the block, clog the hydraulic lifters, and cause premature engine failure.

With the engine off, remove the oil filler cap and look at the cams. Are they nice and shiney or brown and black with sludge. If the later, I suggest you use a bottle of AutoRx ($20) and drive 1-2,000 miles in less than a month. Follow that by switching to synthetic and a good oil filter. Follow the directions on the bottle and your engine will be sludge free and much happier.

Of course, you might get an oil leak. But fixing a leak is usually better than replacing an engine.

Klaus

PS, if your car is subject to lots of short trips, less than 15 minutes and at low speeds; down shift to get the revs up and the oil temps above 212F.

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Why are Volvos so endearing? Its just a car.

Thanks again for the great info. I can see how the synthetic would help. My 850 is primarily my kids car for trips to the school and sports, etc which are usually 15 minutes drives in city traffic. This car has definitely not had higher revs of highway travel etc for the better part of the last two years since they have been using it.

As for the residue on the cams, it is a brownish color so I have some build up but the car does have 160,000 miles. The AutoRx is new to me. My dad was a MArvel Mystery guy but most everything I have heard about these additives makes them out to be snake oil. Your recommendation of AutoRx will give me something to research over the next day or two.

I'm think the synthetic oil will be replacing the dino oil on the next change which is due soon.

I bought my now graduated daughter a 1995 854T for high school, a 2 mile trip. After I realized that then engine oil never got warm, I had her drive to and from school in L. She learned to use the left foot to engage the brake lights as she let up on the gas pedal, deceleration being quite quick at 30mph :>)

Of course, when the pavement is snow covered that method cannot be used. But at least once in a while the engine oil had the impurities burned off.

If you do use AutoRx, then do not switch to synthetic until afterwards. No need to waste money for good oil when you are going to flush it anyway.

BTW, with synthetic, I used to change the filter at 3K and do a full flush w/filter at 6K miles. This was on my primary car, the V70. Road trips did not figure into the schedule... so when I went 2500 miles in one week, I increased my miles between flushes by 2500. Highway miles are easier on the engine than short hops.

Klaus
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Why are Volvos so endearing? Its just a car.

Thanks again for the advice. I'm thinking of the AutoRx and a synthetic oil change when the AutoRx has run its course and needs an oil change.

Just a follow up on my car ticking sound. It got really bad today and I started to add some oil. It is now taking a little more than a quart every 1000 miles. The dealer said it is from blow by and the sound won't really get better. It did sound better but the noise was at its worst on cold startups or after sitting for about a hour and then restarting. It sounds like it is starved for oil on the top end of the engine. When going up hill and accelerating the engine pings like the old days and cheap gas in dad's Olds V8:) I have seen some posts on other sites about the Volvo O ring in the pan causing air to get into the system and causing the hydraulic lifters issues. My dealer said to get ready to replace the engine but at 160,000 miles and good servicing since new I'd like to think the O ring fix could be the ticket. Anyone else have similar experience?

I don't know if i believe the whole "its from the blow by" argument if you cleaned the PCV system correctly.

Do you know that there are no clogs in the system?

If so, how about try venting your engine to atmospheric and see if the noise goes away. If so, then you know there's a clog somewhere but if not then you know its crap... To do this get yourself some rubber hose from lowes. ( i think its like 9/16ths, but check to make sure...) Get a foot and and a small hose clamp. Pull off and seal the PCV hose on the top of your engine (the awesomely curved one...) Put the hose you bought on the hole you've opened on your engine and use the clamp to hold it securely. Its going to get hot so you can't really hold it, and it splashes around a lot of oil, its best not to leak everywhere... Start the car and see what happens.. Also, while running, if you are able you can check for negative pressure in the PCV hose. If you use tape to seal it shut it should suck it in a little bit, otherwise use some tissue paper (or other light paper) and see if it starts to suck it in.

I'd do the AutoRx ASAP!

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'96 850 and '83 244 DL both at about 200K; gone but not forgotten '81 245 and '64 Amazon

I added some oil and the awful ticking is gone. So the engine is using oil I am just not sure how much. I'm going to start using high mileage 10/40 and reallythink about running the AutoRx.