I am looking for any and all short cuts when I replace both E brake cables.

Do I really have to remove the carpet, which means taking out the rear bolts for the front seats?

Should I prep the cable hold downs with PBBlaster? Or should I just get new ones and rip the old ones off?

I actually bought a cheap set of snap ring pliers, just to get the silly ring off the actuator that holds the inside cable end. I couldn't get it off with my old method of 2 screwdrivers.

Looking forward to tossing the rotor and 1mm pads,

Klaus
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Two great Volvos, a 1967 220 and a 1998 V70R

Yes, I cut the plastic clip under the carpet. Silly design, it pushes over the screw easily but will not come up.

I removed the plastic protector pan under the floor pan, ripped apart the rivited plastic strap, somehow managed to pry the cable past the very tight suspension and frame.

Then I pulled the wheel and rotor.

Now, I CANNOT get the cable loose from the back of the brake housing. The expander does NOT come out, there is a large metal flange in the way - and - I do not want to remove the hub.

AND, after removing the clip, I cannot remove the cable from the attachment point. Too tight for my pipe wrench, too slippery for channel pliers. Lots and lots of PBBlaster and I am taking a break after 1:30 on the job.

HELP!

Klaus
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Two great Volvos, a 1967 220 and a 1998 V70R

My cables were still movable -- Once disconnected from the handbrake handle I pulled the expander out away from behind the flange and took the pin out to remove the expander from the cable. Then the cable pulled through the back of the backing plate with some coercion, but that expander has to come off first. I didn't have to do it, but if my cable had been frozen to the point where I could not have pulled it out, my contingency was to cut the cable with a Sawzall as close to the backing plate as I could. You don't even want to think about removing the hub to get the flange out of the way. Also another brickboarder pointed out the plastic cable end may break off in the housing leaving a small o-ring shaped piece that will prevent the new cable from seating.

My expander had frozen which was why I couldn't get it out. Love PBBlaster! Once I knocked the pin out, the cable head needed to be punched back through the hole.

I didn't attach the front of the cable until the wheel was back on. I did notice that the metal crimp(?) on the end of the cable would not go through the housing when I pulled on the cable. Is this a problem? Is there only a 1/2 inch of play inside the drum?

I am not going to adjust the shoes until I have burned in the new pads.

Tomorrow comes the driver's side.

Klaus
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Two great Volvos, a 1967 220 and a 1998 V70R

I am not sure about the difference between 855 and V70. When I did mine about 1 month ago, I had to remove the rear seats to pull up the carpet. Removal of rear seats was very easy to do, no bolts at all, just undo the plastic clips. To remove (not quite remove, but needed to pull up) rear carpet, I needed to unclip the 2 big plastic clips that held down the carpet and undo (slightly) the trim pieces next to the door sill. There were 2 plastic clips (dealer part) in 855 to hold the E-brake cable in place under the carpet. There was no need to remove front seats, just move them a little bit forward.

My E-brake cables were frozen at the end close to the rear hub.

Ching-Ho Cheng
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1995 855 NA, Bilstein Strut & Shocks, Volvo Protective Grill, K&N Filter, E-Code Lens, ClearCorner Light, Alpine CD-Changer, AutoDim RearView Mirror, 6000K HID

Replaced the driver's side today. What a pain! Had to cut the clamp under the carpet. Used copious amount of PBBlaster to get the rotor off and on the cable clamp. I had to use a pipe wrench to get the cable out of the housing.

I put it all together. I remembered reading a story about FCP shoes being too thick, so I left the adjustment completely closed. When I tried the brake with no adjustment at the console, nothing. Makes me wonder if I put it back correctly.

The OEM pad with 180K miles on it had no brake shoe material on one shoe, just a little shiney metal. Nothing fell out when I opened it up.

After I do the right side tomorrow, I will run the car for a while to bed in the rotors. I might need a new caliper or two, we shall see.

Time for a beer!

BTW, the picture in Haynes on 9-10 with the large spring, doesn't look right. The shoe on the left looks like it is out of position - over the metal stop.


Klaus
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Two great Volvos, a 1967 220 and a 1998 V70R

I did this to my '98 V70 a couple months ago. There is are clips under the carpet, and the seats had to come out. The seats are on quick releases, so there was nothing to unbolt. Be prepared to replace p-brake shoes -- I found mine with the lining coming off even though I had replaced them at 230k (now 305k). For the springs I found a tool at AutoZone that was a T-handle with a hook on the end to grab the spring -- worked very well.

OK, how does the clip under the rear carpet get released???

Also, when removing the old cable, does the rubber waterseal get pushed to the outside of the car? I am assuming the large console end can fit through there.

Klaus
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Two great Volvos, a 1967 220 and a 1998 V70R

In 855, I just cut the plastic clip using a cutter.

The rubber waterseal is part of the cable itself. It get pushed to the outside of the car.
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1995 855 NA, Bilstein Strut & Shocks, Volvo Protective Grill, K&N Filter, E-Code Lens, ClearCorner Light, Alpine CD-Changer, AutoDim RearView Mirror, 6000K HID

The rotors have been on the car for a very long time, car has 185K miles and I think they are original. I am replacing all of the parking brake hardware. Both cables were frozen, probably due to internal rust.

So the front seats stay in the car? The rear seats are already in the way-back. There is a panel under the carpeting and over the cable.

I am just wondering how much to take out without making a lot of work.

I get the parts on Wednesday and do it Thursday or Friday.

Then I get to play in the engine compartment :>)

Klaus
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Two great Volvos, a 1967 220 and a 1998 V70R

Once I removed the rear seats I was able to pull up the carpet from the rear edge enough to do the job. I did not have to completely remove it, nor disturbe it at the front seats. Also need to lift the sound deadening pad.

You shouldn't have to remove the carpet. Theoretically you can just thread it through the floor from the outside.