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because it has a blown engine. The rear seat footwells are FULL of coolant, my guess is the owner ruptured the heater core and lunched the motor.
So I will be on the hunt for a parts car locally to donate a good motor, the body is in great shape on mine and I got it to replace my aging 1989 Acura Legend which is starting to show signs of having lived in the salty NE!
My question is, should I yank out the carpets now and dry up the mess? I probably will not be able to get to the engine swap and everything else until next year, so I don't want it sit in there too long. Are carpet kits available for these cars still, and if anyone knows a good place to buy one, please chime in.
Additionally, what should I look to replace when I am doing the engine swap? I would assume the usuals, like timing belt, motor mounts, drive belts etc. Is there anything that comes to mind that is specific to these cars I should keep in mind?
Thanks!
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If you have some low spots, or create some by tilting the car, just make your own drains with a drill!
Get some small rubber plugs from a body supply store and use the correct size drill.
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Actually these cars DO have two small drain holes in the rear floor pans. Additionally, the grommets where the parking brake cables pass through to the underside/ outside of the vehicle can be pushed aside to facilitate drainage as well, just FYI for those that need to know!
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What are the year ranges I can look at for a replacemnt engine? I mean, Will a 1998+ S/V70 be a good donor vehicle as well as (I assume) a 1996&97 850.
Will I run into major problems if I were to buy a pre-OBD II car and use that motor? Any & all clarification is greatly appreciated.
The problem I am finding is that most 850s available are either too high in miles themselves or too nice to want to tear apart. So my logical thought was to turn to the V/S 70s as theyre newer and seem to be (a little) less used up.
The car is a 1997 855 N/A FWIW.
Thanks!
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1998 is the newest you can buy as any newer comes with coil overs and VVT. Even with a 1998, you might want to keep the 1997 intake manifold just because of the vacuum line routings.
Make sure there is good compression in the engines you look at, you really don't want to re-do a head. 20 valves and 40 keepers...
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Excellent! Just the info I was looking for! Thanks!
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What would be the ramifications of trying to use a pre OBDII engine in this car? Will there be sensor issues I should look out for? Just trying to cover all bases!
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1996 - 1998 have SAS and pre 1996 have EGR. The pre 1996 have a different speed signal which goes to the ECU first rather than through the ABS module.
The intake manifold is slightly different in the two versions, the vacuum lines are routed differently.
If you go OBDI, you will also need the computer and wiring.
On your 1997, I suggest doing the 'SAS delete' explained in Volvospeed after the new block is installed.
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Klaus, thanks for the tips. I will look into that stuff when its time to do the engine swap.
I was able to buy a 1996 854 sedan on Saturday for $500.00 with a bad rack. Approx 110k on the drivetrain, so I should be able to get some good life out of the donor parts. Best of all it was 3 miles from my house so I could just drive it home! I'm usually not that lucky as I live in the country and nothing is close by.
Sadly its begun to snow here so the project may get shelved until spring when I can feel my hands again! Until then its time to start stockpiling consumable parts and read up more and more!
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Depending on how bad the rack leak is, get a small bottle of Lucas PS stop leak and pour it in - all of it. It just might help and give you a winter 'beater' to drive around. The Lucas is a bit like syrup, so syphon out the small reservior, pour in the Lucas, start the engine for a minute or two and repeat.
My rack also leaked, but only at full lock of the wheel, maximum pressure. It hasn't leaked again as far as I can determine.
The 1996 is a great find, especially with only 110K on the clock. Look at Volvospeed for SAS delete if you get a P0410 code, easy 'fix' and the car runs better without the SAS pump. This is a 'too cold outside' project, until you get to the part about removing the SAS air pump.
Most of the engine bay will swap with the 1997, assuming both cars are non-turbo. Carpets can also be swapped.
My garage, attached to the house, is down to 40F. And the wrench turning has slowed considerably.
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I have my old Acura Legend to use as a beater so I'm ok there. The mechanic I got it from ( his customer had ditched it at the shop, having lost interest and bought something else) said the "crossover lines" were bad. Haven't looked into it, and doubt I will. The car runs and drives nice, could use a tune-up no doubt, but I will be addressing all of this when its time for the swap. Both are NA cars so I think it'll be a fairly easy job.
My workspace is an old barn built sometime in the late 1800's, so to say its chilly is a tad of an understatement! Perhaps a torpedo heater is on my Christmas list.
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SO I have the engine from the 1996 ready to be removed. I have noticed two major differences between the two years; the aforementioned SAS system and the fuel delivery.
I have read the SAS delete articles on Volvospeed, but I am a tad unsure of what is OK to physically remove from the vehicle and what MUST stay... Perhaps somebody here could shed a bit of light.
As far as the fuel delivery goes, the 1996 uses a twin fuel line arrangement whereas the 1997 uses a single fuel pipe. Am I correct in thinking I can just use the fuel rail assy. from the 1997 on the 1996 motor?
The tear-down has been a slow but fun process so far. As of right now, most of everything came off without too much fighting. I will keep my fingers crossed that the trend continues!
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Having replaced the breather systems in my two 850's (one turbo), I would definitely recommend replacing the breather system. Including the tubing. My 87 turbo had hidden cracks in the breather tube that routes under the intake manifold and was filling the cabin with blow-by fumes. took awhile to find the problem.
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UPDATE!~
Engine is installed and all of the wiring re-attached. Interior is mostly reinstalled and looks great... What a job!
I have run into two issues thus far:
1. I am getting a static drip from the firewall connectors for the heater core, apparently the bane of this cars existance! Anybody know the correct O-ring/ backup washer stacking? I tried to replicate what was there but I'm not positive it is correct. Yes, its all new stuff...
2. Where does the small vacuum ( I guess) line that comes off of the end (belt side) of the 1997 intake manifold go? It is the only part that seems to be without a home at this point....
Other than that, it has been a fun albeit, long and labor intensive job. Ended up adding new suspension and wheel bearings to the list, as well as a host of other parts along the way... so far expensive but fun. Hope to turn the keys soon, maybe this weekend!
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You really need to start a new post.
The only picture I could find on the firewall coupler was from the cabin side. It showed plastic/O ring/plastic/ O ring/ coupler. http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=40547
Do not buy URO junk. If you wind up getting a new coupler at the dealer, it comes with O rings.
Look at Ebay for a new heater core, somewhere around $40 for a new one.
Vacuum line: I believe it goes from the manifold to the flame trap, and is part of the large hose from the oil separator.
--
My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat
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Klaus,
I had considered starting a new thread but it seemed that this was still relating to the original post. I like these forums when problems get resolved all the way thru in one thread so another user searching for similar info in the future can get a good idea of the whole project.
Anyways, the delete mod does away with those lousy couplings entirely and you use standard 5/8" heater hose. I found a good DIY on Matthews VS. You gut the coupling to use it as a plug thru the firewall and hose clamp either end. Done. Not quite as neat as the original, but it seems much better in that its not all plastic garbage which can fail at any time. Unlikely, yes, I know, but I digress...
I did take your advice and get the $40 ebay heater core. Looks OK, my only concern is it looks identical ( clamped flange type tank, not OEM style) as the one that failed TERRIBLY in the first place, ruining the first motor. I am keeping my fingers crossed that was just a fluke.
Thanks for your advice on the intake vac line, I will look into that when I get a chance! I think you are correct, as it was originally routed under the intake as was the original.
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UPDATE UPDATE
IT RUNS!!
Started up on the first try and ran great. Has a small exhaust leak at the block and a small drip coming out of the dipstick area of the transmission.
I still need to know where that vac line coming off the end of the intake manifold goes though, right now I just have it blocked off with a golf tee...ideas? Nothing seems to be short one vac line....
I also ended up doing the firewall coupling delete for the heater core as it was still dripping and I had zero faith in it. Turns out upon removal that it had broken internally and was due for replacement anyways. One bullet dodged there!
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For the SAS delete, you need to solder the pins in the ECU - no big deal. And then you need to keep the solenoid on the radiator shroud and the relay hooked on to the blower by the left front wheel. You can then close the hole at the #1 exhaust runner and eliminate the SAS valve that sticks up between the engine and firewall, eliminate the hose from the pump to the SAS valve, vacuum line from the fan shroud solenoid to the SAS valve, eliminate the pump and the air supply line to the air filter (plug the hole in the filter box). I hung the blower relay on the shelf behind the headlight.
If you are using the 1996 intake manifold, then the vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator (looks like a fuel line) will have to be routed to the vacuum tree. I suggest using the 1997 intake manifold, nicely cleaned up of course.
Before you install the engine, swap out the old PCV hoses and oil separator box, new belts, etc.
When I did the SAS delete, I found a 1995 turbo air cleaner box at the P&P, that not only eliminated the air hole for the SAS pump, but eliminated the warm air hose from the exhaust manifold. I included the fresh air duct from the radiator. Engine works great. Eliminated another vacuum line from the vacuum tree.
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You have lots of time, so pull out all of the seats and remove all 3 pieces of carpet. Power wash or use a bristle brush and Simple Green to remove any oil/grease stains, rinse with lots of water and let them dry in the shade.
Antifreeze doesn't seem to evaporate for ages. The rubber faced insulation under the carpet has foam under it. This foam is very hard to get dry. I have used newspaper to sop it up. Collect as much as you can. You will notice that the insulation cannot be removed without gutting the entire car and you don't want to do that.
As to the engine, yes, belts and PVC come to mind. If it is a turbo, consider a turbo seal rebuild if you have the time.
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I have the seats out, that was the easy part!
The carpets will be out soon and set aside once clean. That foam liner is soaked, like to full capacity soaked! I may have to remove it to get this thing dry. I fear mold and rust issues could ensue otherwise. What is the best way to do this? How is it attached (ie spray glue, just lays there...) I am not against making clean cuts in it with a razor knife so I can get it out. I have access to some real good carpet tape that I use in aircraft interiors so re-attachment wouldnt be a big problem.
Thoughts?
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The plastic trim around the bottom of the doors, pull the front back away from the A pillar, then gently lift the sill part up and the carpet is ready to come out. The foot rest is not easy!
As to the insulated rubber liner, it is in 2 pieces - front and rear. It does not come out!! I suppose you could cut it out in the floor pan sections, but getting it back will be a real problem. Do not separate the foam from the rubber as you will never get it back properly and the floor will be lumpy.
Because it is water and not antifreeze, it will evaporate - slowly. If it is as soaked as it sounds, try pushing the water from the center side to the back rear and use a shop vack to sop up the water. Save a sunday paper without the glossy stuff and stuff the entire newspaper (flat) under the foam as far as you can. Let it sit and repeat when wet.
Park in the sun with the windows slightly lowered and let the heat be your friend.
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Klaus
The problem is it IS coolant, and therefore will not evaporate; not at least for quite some time. Do these cars have drainplugs in the floorpans? I guess I could always lift the front slightly and let gravity help if they did...
I will try the newspaper trick as well.
Thanks!
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Remove the foam and replace it with new dense foam of the same thickness. you can cut through the rubber mat along the transmission tunnel and peal off the foam. Then glue the new foam on with spray and cover the joint with tape. I used Gorilla Duct tape. I had the same problem with my 2000 S70. Unless you replace the saturated foam and thoroughly clean the carpet the car will always smell of AF. (ask my wife) I used a commercial carpet cleaner and a steam cleaner. Did the trick!
Good Luck,Tom
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Tom,
Where did you find the foam? That sounds like a good idea!
What was the cause of your car filling with coolant? I assume in my case it was the heater core letting go but haven't had a chance to look further. I am thinking of tossing a bit of water in it to see where it is coming out but haven't had a chance to do that either.
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I am not aware of any drain plugs in the floor pan. I didn't even have any in my 122.
Fortunately, you have time to let it dry. The glycol will prevent any mold. Just sop it up as best as you can. You will use months of newspaper.
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Use a shop vac-- I bought an upholstry attachment for mine and it is very useful! You might need to rinse it out the carpets with more fresh water to get rid of all of the vestiges of spilled coolant. Then put a dehumidifier in the car and and let it run overnight.
Good luck!
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Herb,
I like the shop vac idea, I honestly hadn't thought of that!
I'm thinking of pulling the carpets all the way out and powerwashing them clean, then use your ideas as well.
Thanks!
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Carpets are out and washed, they came out real good! In fact they look almost new, far better than most I have seen that are going on 17 years old.
The foam underneath is absolutely saturated and is hanging up to drip off, but I think its past recovery. Time to start the search for a parts car!
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