Just stopping by from the 240 Forum with a question. Just recently, in answer to a Member's inquiry as to the cost to purchase a replacement for his 240, one of our group made the observation that the best prices for inexpensive older Volvo cars can be found in the V70 and S70 lines. I had just recently noticed, too, in my perusal of the local Craigslist, that some very nice,clean,'low' mileage examples of these V and S cars can be had for literally give-away prices. Personally, I think they're pretty handsome cars, even if they're 12-15 years old. But, the question remains: What's wrong with them, especially since the ads invariably say 'good runner' and 'no rust'?

B

A really good 240 isn't going to be cheap either, they are approaching collector status.

As with any Volvo, if you don't DIY, the cost to maintain is very high.

The 850, with the exception of 1993, are fairly good cars. The 94-95 have OBD in the engine bay and are easier to diagnose. The 96+ require a scanner, but most generic scanners only do engine and emissions.

The AC evaporator tends to leak after a while and that is like replacing a 240 blower - 10 hours. The heter core and/or blower in the new cars are less than 1 each to replace.

I like the 1998, before the electronic throttle, as the window controls are in the door rather than the center console. There is also a small plastic rain gutter next to the windscreen to keep the water from the front windows.

Beware of the 2001 Volvos, the trannies are not the best and the cost to replace is a lot.

The engine bay is tighter to work on, but still do able. The electronic climate control can be painful when it is not working as a generic code reader doesn't work for the ECC.

The need for a folding Torx tool in the glove box. There are very few phillips screws.

An 'older' 850/70 will need struts/shocks. If you have a spring compressor, it is no big deal. The timing belt MUST be replaced every 70K miles or 10 years, along with rollers. The 99+ cars require a tensioner replacement as well.

If you find one with traction control, that system works well.

There is only body rust if the car is neglected.

Some more points:

Add the 850's to the discussion. They are essentially the same car as the S70 and V70's.

850's, S70/V70's don't rust because they have body panels that are galvanized on both sides unlike the 240's and the earlier Volvo's.

There are a few exceptions, namely the auto tranny in the 93's and the 5 speed auto tranny in the 2000 models, but the drivetrain is as bulletproof as the 240/740/940's.

They are better in rain, snow and ice. They have more safety features. They are safer in a collision. Particularly in a side impact as they all have side air bags and SIPS (except for the very early cars that don't have side air bags).

Thay are also more fun to drive as they are faster, handle/ride better and have a very responsive 5 cylinder engine.

There are some downsides. The parts are usually more expensive. Compared to a 240, they are usually more difficult to DIY but still very simple compared to today's cars.

FWIW - I drove a 240 for 11 years. I've been driving 850's for about 6 years. I'd never go back to using a 240 as a daily driver. Maybe as a project or a backup car.

Happy Hunting!

"What's wrong with these cars?" Who knows? There is nothing inherently wrong with the car, in fact it is far superior to a 240 in most aspects, many wish Volvo had never moved from that model. Thank Ford for that stuff.

Like any Volvo, deffered mantainence is a killer. A well kept car is a bargain, if you can find one.

Why are they cheap? Craig's list is a cheap market of cheap products mostly read by cheap people. FWIW, I sold my 96 854t5 in December of '12 for $4k. Of course, the car was full of upgrades, fanaticly cared for and the buyer is a long term client of my IM. Yet, you could find other examples as low as $800. on CL.

An in depth inspection by a Volvo knowledgable IM is the only way to know if you are looking at a gem or junk.

Good luck.