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Hello All,
I need some advice on rebuilding the front struts on my 2003 S40. I ran into two problems in the middle of this project.
I thought a regular set of spring compressors would work, but I cannot compress the springs far enough to releave tension on the spring seats. Do I need a special compressor set for strut springs?
I also just realized my rebuild kit did not include new spring seats. Any thoughts on reusing the old spring seats, or should I just put this on hold and order a pair of new seats?
One other thought. If I need a special spring compressor and new seats, would I just be better off at this point returning my kit and ordering a new pair of assembled struts?
I've done coil spring replacements on other vehicles, but this is my first endeavor doing a set of struts. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Rich
Apex, NC
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That's a surprise. Even really short springs should compress. Makes no difference if they are struts (McPherson) or plane old springs. Unless your bars are not long enough or weren't maxed out when you began.
I remember doing my first struts. I compressed them too much, not realizing that the bottom of the spring has slightly rusted to the bottom seat and welded themselves to the top rubber spring seat. A simple twist and it was free.
As to spring seats, get new ones - heavy duty.
Most parts stores will lend you a spring compressor.
--
My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat
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Thanks Klaus,
I'll be ordering new spring seats Monday morning from FCPeuro.
My spring compressor is an AMPRO T70570. It reaches from one spring seat to the other with room to spare. This is a 9" spread over three coils. My problem is on the opposite side of the spring where I can only get a 5" spread over two coils. The body of the compressor takes up 3.5", so I only get 1.5" of compression out of the 5" spread.
With this limited 1.5" compression, when I compress the opposite 9" side, it starts to over compress and flairs the portion of the spring in the spring seat outwards instead of drawing it together. It is close to releaving the tension as I can wiggle the spring (just a tad) from the seat, but am afraid to remove the nut on the shock for fear it will spring and not allow me to reseat the nut on the new shock. I hope this made sense. I do not know how else to explain it.
I'm thinking if I get another set of spring compressors and work both sets together, I will be able to compress the springs enough to properly remove them without any remaining tension on the seats.
Again, any other ideas or suggestions are greatly welcome and appreciated.
Rich
Apex, NC
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If you have 9" on one side and only 5" on the other, move the compressor so that you have 7" on both sides. If the spring starts to bow, STOP, and back off. That is just dangerous.
--
My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat
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I did the front struts on my '01 last year. Actually did them twice.
My spring compressor has two hooks and a very long bolt between them. I too recall that my compressor had a difficult time fully compressing the springs. I got through it, but did not feel very comfortable doing it - was waiting for the springs to "explode" at any second.
Mine were done twice because I tried to re-use the upper spring mounts. Bad idea, but I needed to save money at the time. Anyway, when the new struts were mounted in the old upper mounts, they rattled around like crazy. I ended up purchasing new upper strut mounts from Tasca. I think you're on the right track.
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Thanks for your experience and support. My compressor has a double set of hooks on each end. They get a firm positive grip on the springs. Double checked this morning and am almost 100%confident working with an additional set of spring compressors will work. Will let you know mid-week. No one locally has spring seats except maybe the dealer, so it will probably be Wednesday till they arrive.
Klaus, your idea in theory is perfect. Unfortunately, these S40 springs will not allow you to do this. At least not with only one set of spring compressors. Dividing the strut in to quarters, only one side allows 9" of reach. The other three only provide 5". Reason being the 9" reach allows spanning 3 coils. The springs beyond this 9" reach are tight against the seats for another full revolution, top and bottom. Under the 9" reach, you can only access 2 coils.
However, once I get the 9" and opposing 5" side compressed, it partially opens the portion of spring formerly compressed against the spring seat. Now it appears I can use a second set of compressors and clamp three coils on the two remaining sides to do exactly what you are describing. It is just going to take two sets of compressors to accomplish it. I'll let you know how it turns out.
One last question. I do not have a pictorial of the strut assembly. I'm guessing there should be some sort of isolator/bushing/bearing between the spring seat and top mount? I cannot go by the old struts, they are Monroe's. (I cannot believe this car came with Monroe shocks!) The old top mount and spring seat is a one piece unit. The new top mount and spring seat are individual components. If someone can enlighten me about needing a bearing between the two I would appreciate it.
Rich
in lovely Apex, NC :)
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IIRC, mine first appeared to be a one-piece unit but it came apart on inspection.
I don't really remember anything unusual about it.
Maybe when you get yours off it'll make more sense.
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The struts are finished. I did take both sets of spring compressors to get things apart properly. Once apart, the upper components were indeed separate.
New parts: top mounts, bushings & caps, spring seats, rubber rings, bump stops & boots, and of course new shocks. Knowing what I know now, I would have reused the rubber rings. They were in good shape and would have saved me $80. (What an outrageous price for two rubber rings.) If I wanted to be even more frugal, I could have also gotten away with reusing the original spring seats, and bump stops & boots. That would have saved another $80.
During reassembly I discovered the boots on my lower ball joints are shot. So now I am trying to determine if there is enough space to press in new ball joints without removing the control arms.
Thanks again for all your advice. I very much appreciated it.
Rich
Apex, NC
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