i have replaced the solenoids in my tranny roughly 17~20K miles ago. bolt cleaning and prep is the KEY to this job. and this job is my least favorite to-date. i have done all the normal tune-ups and brakes, control arms, steering ends, shocks and springs, radiators, waterpumps, PNP switch, starters, window regulators, and timing belts... but the tranny solenoids was really not great. partially because i have no lift, but i did use car ramps and jacks, etc...

the percussion wrench is a great suggestion and some sort of PB-blatster/WD40 is important. the bolts are shallow and TIGHT. also, cleaning off the old and replacing the new gasket can be a real pain in the a$$ too. and the whole time tranny fluid is slowly dripping out while you work. it aint wonderful.

BUT, it is still running and shifting better than it was,. now, it isnt buttery and Smooooth like a new one, but it IS improved.


good luck!
--
-woodsy; 280k 1995 850 wagon;

Hi Sherm,

I agree with Klaus, except I'd use a Mystery Oil soak.
Sometimes you can free a stuck screw with a sharp hit with a hammer and punch
Head on. Shock and/or heat, will often free stuff that's stuck.
Heat is a last resort around Aluminum though.

I wondered about impact wrenches for your job, and found a long listing
on Ebay for impact Torx bits. You'll need to invest in high quality bits.
and maybe an impact driver would make it an easy job?

Here's one of many electric options:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEWALT-DCF813B-12V-12-Volt-Max-Lithium-Ion-3-8-Impact-Wrench-Tool-Only-New-NIB-/361438851794?hash=item54276f32d2:g:rGsAAOSwxN5WWhAU

There are hand impact drivers around, but the cheap ones make fair paper weights.

Good luck, Bill

I haven't done that yet. But, before you start, clean the torx with a wire brush to get all of the corrosion out of the center and carefully put some PBBlaster around the edge of the Torx. If you get the penetration oil in the center, clean it off with a spray of brake cleaner. Wait a day to let the PBblaster do its thing. I have had to do this with other exposed torx screws.

I have also crammed the largest torx bit into the screw, depends on the amount of rust, and then lightly tapped the end of the ratchet to simulate a shock to break it loose.

I once owned a Jeep Wrangler which is full of Torx screws. One really stubborn screw was showing signs of stripping, so I used a small drill bit to drill a small depression on one edge, just big enough for a punch. Then, using a hammer and punch, I tapped it counter clockwise until the screw came loose. That took me an hour! But the screw was still usable.

It's not fun lying under the car and doing everything upside down, especially when it is cold. Once the torx are broken free, take a break and warm up. And remember, the casing is soft aluminum so the torque values are going to be low.

--
Keeping it running is better than buying new