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Hi
You are about the only one that has posted over the holidays. I need a time killer!
I’m personally a 240 man and only can advise a most “probable cause” scenario for your type engine.
My suggestions are based on basic mechanics of the internal combustion engines, no matter what flavor! (:)
With that said with my minor disclaimer!
I would believe that if your ignition system is acting normally.
It’s not misfiring or throwing any emissions codes for an “out of perimeter” reading coming from an electronic sensor.
Your computer is limited since its only two years into OBD II. It’s slightly better than absolutely nothing, I think? (:)
Off hand, I think you are probably looking at a low fuel supply amount in the injection rail to the fuel injectors.
It is my first thing to consider on any car with hard starting up after a long shut down period.
With it being in the morning hours, of lowing temperatures from the daytime hours, the amount of extra fuel needed to be brought in has to be of higher enrichment.
This fuel needs to be atomized but hits cold Pistons and cylinder walls, like cooked spaghetti on to a refrigerator side. Im told its a measurement gage to see if it’s done! (:)
That right there, can cause these symptoms.
On the second cranking, its fueling mission, does not directly go to laying down in the combustion chamber, but it saturates the air more closely to the spark plugs and it will fire up!
Since you have 235,000 miles and 22 years on fuel delivering components like those in regulating the pressures, there might be of a slight hindrance within that department.
The idea is to keeping the fuel rail filled up in a total volume amount. The engine has to be seen turning over before relays click and pumps start to roll on.
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It is normal for the pressures to start out at zero or a very slight partial number above zero “overnight.”
This happens because of all of the fuel lines, from the tank forward, cools down from daytime or running and the contraction drops the actual pressure.
The fuel rail is “supposed to be” kept “full-full” for quicker starts at anytime! This is to reduce vapors from forming during a hot engine shut down.
Empty spaces or condensing gasses displacing the actual liquid fuel in there.
The injectors want to push a calibrated liquid into the engine.
You cannot calibrate vapor and liquid changes accurately.
Some fuels can have issues in this area with the present day supply chain issues, who knows?
I haven’t experienced any my self!
Have you recently changed to a different fuel source, ie, different township, or an octane grade for the sake of pennies?
It’s something to consider with mornings of winter here!
With all that said above, it’s like with an old days carburetor that has sat long enough to evaporate fuel out of its float bowl.
The pumps have to make up the difference in order for the jets to get filled up, so they can now LEAK themselves into the passing air stream.
A carburetor is nothing more than a narrow throat BUCKET with calibrated holes in it!
In racing, they got into some very sophisticated compromises and have done their best when considering the economics and simplicity! IMHO (:-)
Much like everything else, conditional demands change!
I don’t know how much you tinker on your car, but a pressure gauge or a fuel output quantity test might be in the near future!
Here goes a suggestion. Buying a Tools or books for a automotive school is better than the mechanic’s by the hour shop rate!
Now!
You could try running the pumps before the first cranking to fill the rail. Maybe just bump the engine a couple times but not try to start it at all!
Then, on the first full crank, if it started better, you might draw some inferences that it’s a fuel holding volume, when cold, issue.
The computers on the 90’s model 240s have this feature.
When you only first turned the key on to light up the instrument cluster the pumps run for one or two seconds and stop.
That is, unless you went straight on over to cranking.
You could barely hear a relay click and a hum from under the rear seat on the drivers side.
This preloaded the fuel rail.
You might have to listen even more closely than us, if your car has a fancier, more plush, interior!
On the 240’s the most likely culprit is a leaky FPR or fuel pressure regulator. Either a check ball or a diaphragm that’s internally going south bound.
Volvos are notorious for aging on themselves, SLOWLY !
After that a check valve on the main pump, get attention, if it’s really hard to start warm after a short period shut down.
Also If the gas tank goes below a half tank or stalls going up steep hills, we blame the pre pumps.
Their in the fuel tank that feeds the larger pump outside under the car.
I believe on your newer car everything is now stuck inside the fuel tank as one unit and that make the whole affair a harder and more expensive troubleshooting endeavor in a shop!
You would have to research the forums on how to pull a Star Trek “Scotty” and just run the pumps despite those engineers!
We can do it from a fuse panel with a paper clip or a homemade jumper wire! I have used a shoestring on a dead relay to get home! I’m not Scottish but enough Irish and German mix, maybe?
The 240’s are simpler to do a Scottish thrifty trick on! (:)
Anyhow, think about it!
Keep Listening and Watching for clues, its talking and showing you stuff alright!
Volvos can have some human characteristics, when they need a little TLC,
Phil
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