I am installing mine this weekend. it takes about 5 minutes to install and an hour to tune.

there are more detailed instructions in a previous post but there are the hoses on the side of the airbox going into a switch. remove the line to the wastgate actuater (RED) and put a plug where you remove it from the switch. then take the line into the switch (BLUE) i think, it is the one that is not real short and does not connect to the airintake pipe. put a T in this line and put hte dawes device on the new T fitting and then put the (RED) watstgate hose on the G-Valve-- (vented end with small hole)-- VERY IMPORTANT TO PUT IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION.. then adjust the valve to the desired boost setting. drive and adjust, drive and adjust, etc.

there is a small spike of 1-2 psi so set the valve to 12 psi for HPT and 11 psi for LPT engine.

100.00 for the added boost sure beats a ECU upgrade for 800.00$$$$..

Dan

> and get that instant off the line power, instead of waiting for the turbo to spool up.

And how do you intend to do that? Especially from a standstill will the turbo still need to spin up and start to produce boost pressure. It will never be 'instant' and can never be. Simple physics.

If you're looking for that then you either need a big V8 equipped car or a supercharged one.

> My question is how hard is the install?

Should be easy. Remove the ECU controlled pressure-valve from the hose between the wastgate actuator and the compressed air feed and install the dawes device in there.

Then start tweaking it.

> Do I run a risk of messing up my Volvo?

Yes. Short and simple.

Before going o do this you *must* buy and install a calibrated boost gague (eg. one from IPD or similar) or you will be 'flying blind' and that can get expensive very, very quickly!

Another good tool is an A/F meter so you can see when the mixture is going lean. A lean mixture under boost will melt through pistons like they are butter.

If you increase the boost this way you also remove the ECU control over the boost level, so it can't lower pressure anymore when it detects knocking. This means you will need to run 92 octane or better to keep the engine happy!

> BTW, why didn't our cars come from the factory with the manual boost controller for that extra power? Or, why didn't they turn the wastegate a few turns?

Simple: Cars need to be dumbo-proof and need mechanical reliability for several 100k miles.

Devices like this are way too dangerous unless the user knows exactly what (s)he is doing and is aware of the risks. You *can* blow your engine this way.

Also: 'drivability' is a major issue. A high-strung car is perceived as too 'nervous' by the majority of drivers and as such not a good commercial idea unless it's a real sportscar (and lets's face it.. No Volvo can really be called that).

Bye, Arno.