Hi,

Finally I decided to get rid of the annoying clunking noise. But before I buy the sway bar link causing it I'd like to know haw hard it would be installing it. I'd be glad to hear your process and any shortcuts (if there are any) to make it easier. Thanks in advance,
Ihsan '95 854 N/A

Just a note: On My 98 S70 once the link is off the sway bar moves
up (its like a spring) and no longer will align with the end of the link.
I placed a long wrench (piece of metal pipe would work) under the A-arm
with the top over the sway bar. Push down to position the sway bar
back so it aligns with the link end (so you can bolt it back on).

Above assumes you connct the sway bar end last. Would have same issue
if you replace the bolts on the strut end last and using a pry bar
should still work to line it all up.

Like Sin said, easy job, harder to explain then actually perform.

It takes a whole 10 minutes for me. I simply jack up the front of the car, and support on jack stands (it is most easily done without weight on the front wheels due to the fact that it links the travelling struts to the chassis through a metal bar that flexes). Remove the wheel on the side that the link is to be replaced (btw, I highly recommend changing out both if you haven't changed the other one recently).

Depending on the generation linkage you have (there are 3 redesigns) the nut retaining both ends of the link, may be removed simply by unscrewing it, or, you may require a torx bit to lock the bolt the nut is screwed to, in place, or use an open ended wrench to catch the cut outs on the metal assembly hidden behind the rubber boot, while you unscrew the nut.

Trust me, this sounds a lot more complicated then it actually is. When you have it in front of you, it becomes blatantly obvious how to remove it.

BTW, this is a common failure, and I have learned to keep on in my garage at all times. And lastly, the latest redesign is superior by far, as well as significantly cheaper.

Thanks a lot,

I'll look into it this weekend. Why do you recommend changing both? is it just a peace of mind or a precaution? Thanks in advance,
Ihsan

These fail ALL THE TIME, and are relatively cheap. They fail so often, most Volvo dealerships make sure they always have plenty in stock.

I mean, don't change it if the other is brand new. But if it's the original, or over two years old, I would personally change it.

What are the symptoms of the sway bar links in need of replacement? Mine are 102K mi veterans. I have popping sounds on take off in my front end on bothsides near the wheels. Just so happens I have a fresh pair of these to install, but have never heard of the reason for doing so.

'96 850 GLT

Thanks,

TR

Popping sound on take off is not indicative of an anti-sway bar link failure. These often occur when going over bumps, and rather large steering inputs, like when manouvering in a parking lot.

Although this could also be the case, I'd check the strut mounts, as well as the control arm (both the bushings, and the ball joint), as well as for play in the driveline.

If you have the pair already, I'd install them first, and if the noise persists, keep investigating.

Some of the forum members said that the clunking sound from the front wheels whe you go over a bump/hole is because the sway bar link bushings fail. I have that sound coming from my right wheel since I bought the car back in December and it annoyed me since then until I found out the source with a post from a forum member that I don't remember his name. Anyway, I'll replace those this weekend and I'll let you know if it was the real cause for the noise.
Ihsan

How to check if sway bar link fails?

Check for play in the ball joint style end of the link.