please can anyone let me know how to remove the entire upper engine mount from the car.

i have bought a new bush for it and am getting it pressed in but i need to remove it from the car to give to someone get done

cheers

i have done this during the previous weekend, not difficult at all. i used a hacksaw blade to score what was left of the mount and broke it out with a screw driver. i replaced it with an OEM part as i wanted the idle to be as smooth as possible. putting the new part in required a bit of improvising, i used a C-clamp & a piece if wood with a hole drilled in it so that the pressure would be distrubuted along the perimeter of the bushing. the hardest part was getting it started without the bushing becoming askew. if you do use OEM note the position of the arrows on the current bushing, mine were veritical and start at the flared end.

My 95 855 cane with the yellow bushing already installed. I'd be curious to know if there's any possible way to mess up this mod so I can check the work. It looks like kind of a hack, but I'm all for stiffening up bushings wherever possible. One thing I've noticed is that my whole dash shudders when I start the car. This is to be expected when you stiffen engine mounts, I suppose, and it's worth noting that the vibration only occurs on startup. Just wondering if that replicates others' experiences.

BTW, I seem to recall reading that the 850 used "hydraulic engine mounts." Really? Which ones?

Viking motors in WA state said that they were selling a yellow bushing that lasted longer than the oem one. Its harder therefore results in a much stiffer feedback from shifting,etc, They said its not the one that is in the ipd catalog but they buy from the same supplier. I dont know if the harsher feedback from the harder bushing will hurt anything but a smooth feel is what i am looking for .

They charge $100 for parts and labor. I found that volvo now sells an aluminum part with the bushing already pressed in. You cant get it seperate. I paid about $42 from beechmont motors, free shipping. My only complaint is that i will have to continue to pay $42 every 28,000 miles as they wear out. Sheesh. This is starting to sound like ford, fix or repair daily.

Andrew

I drove my car pretty hard -- especially off-pavement -- when it was younger, and that bushing died before 60K mi (I don't know how long I'd driven the car with the bushing ruptured before noticing it). But its exact replacement is lasting much longer.

To you guys who believe that bigger/stronger is always better:

You need to understand that Volvo spent a lot of resources trying to prevent 5-cylinder vibrations from being transmitted to and noticed inside the cabin. The two most obvious methods of attacking ths engineering problem are the mass suspended under the shallow console storage bin and the bushing in question, which was designed to provide just the right amount of fore-aft (with much less up-down) "give". I suspect someone on the engineering team could expound on the specific optimal directional visco-elastic properties that were desired and designed-in.

So after you've finished replacing the failed OEM bushing with a "more durable" aftermarket replacement, and are congratulating yourself that "I'll never have to solve that problem again", realize that you've just discarded/destroyed a solution in the form of some of the careful engineering that went into making your car what it was.

BTW, my boneheaded solution to the problem was to buy an entire new arm with a new bushing pre-installed. Take it from me, you really don't want to replace the entire arm unless it's absolutely necessary -- it's doable but too many other things must be loosened/removed...

- Dave; '95 854T, 143K mi

Several people report they have built a simple press using bolts and
washers. I replaced mine using a combination of a simple hand press
I bought years ago, some plumbing parts, large washers and two trips
to the hardware store. Basically, you jury-rig up something to get
the job done (helpful to have a few boxes of junk parts -- the kind of
stuff you collect over the years).

On newer cars one end of the mount has a flared edge so you press it out
towards the flair and back in into the flair.

Also note the part has to be oriented correctly (it has a front facing
arrow for this, as I recall). Don't just press it in any random
orientation.

The other route is to cut out the existing one with a hack saw blade.
I believe this is what people do who then install the bushing sold
by IPD (which is not pressed in). (I've always wondered about shavings
dropping down into the engine area with this method.)

A search using "upper mount press" (down below, to the right) turned
up a few hits. Try:

http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=561012

Ray,

My motor mount is dead. After reading this original post i ran out to my car and found the mount was cracked on both ends. One side is fairly bad the other is a hairline crack.

Regarding how you press the thing in there, can you be more specific on how you might do this? I was thinking you use C clamps and wood. 2 strips of wood and C clamp on each side, then start cranking it down until it goes in. Sound like you also have an orientation issue meaning that you press the new mount in from a certain side.

When you said flaired....and new cars does that mean 98 or newer?

Andrew
1999 S70 GLT

I replaced my broken bushing with a yellow poly using a hack saw blade and screw driver as mentioned elsewhere in this discussion. I've noticed no increase in noise/vibration. I think I got it from Trollhattan 1-800-328-7655. I can't imagine it ever wearing out as it is solid polyurethane (the oem bush is not solid - a design flaw in my mind).

One very important warning to those of you who have broken bushings:

Check your air intake hose (black plastic housing attached to the throttlebody that has the flame trap connected to it). Ours was cracked as a result of the broken bushing and engine rocking back an forth. This lead to intermittent difficult starting and rough idle and an eventual clogged flame trap vacuum tube which lead to blown oil front and rear main seal (I think) - at a total cost of over $2000. Do yourself a big favor and check/replace your flame trap and vacuum hose regularly.

Volvo is letting everyone down on this one by not issuing a recall or service campaign. At least my dealer never mentioned it in the many years I had my car serviced there.

Mark Sloo
'93 850 GLT, '65 122s, '65 122s

I would also be interested in the answer to John. I made a post earlier asking about which engine mount fails first. Given its the top one, i would like to know if anyone can tells us how to take one out and press one in.

Andrew
1999 S70 GLT

i fitted a "polybush" upper bush 2 weeks ago, i must say the extra vibration and noise is hardly noticeable.

What is a polybush? and how long does it last?

I talked to the dealer and fri. and all they said what that the bushing takes alot of wear. They shrug off the fact that on this car and others that they wear out very fast. There is no redesign in the works according to them. I have it in under warranty 2 months before it expires.

I was curious does anyone know if youre hurting the car by putting in a stiffer bushing? or is it that the smoothness goes away and that is all you loose?

Do you hurt anything if you leave the broken on in there too long?

Andrew