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If you replace the pads you will be able to tell the condition of the calipers because you will need to push the pistons back in, or on some types of calipers turn an adjusting wheel. This is to make room for the thick new pads. A good caliper will allow you to do this, though slowly and with some resistance, while a bad one will be very hard to move back at all. When lubricating the caliper slides you should use the type of grease specified for this job. I got some under the Permatex brand which comes in little packets with just about enough for 1-2 caliper assemblies.
My experience with wheel bearings is that the noise is fairly constant, and varies with road speed (may be much worse in a particular speed range). It did not vary much if at all with turning, accelerating or coasting. It can seem different on different types of road surface. The noises I've heard have been low-pitched, like a growl, and did not seem to be pulsating, but nothing is ruled out by that.
CV joint checks - with car not running, look for torn boots in which cases joint may have gone dry. The joint may be so loose you can wiggle the entire half-shaft by grabbing it. But this can be hard to check - if the car is in park the shaft may have force on it. You could push the car forward and back a couple of inches to try to get any tension off the shaft before wiggling. While driving - noise may be much worse on turns, and may change quite a bit between coast and accelerate. Sometimes a loose joint will take up tension when you move forward. You can try shifting gently between drive and reverse with your foot on the brake. Then if the joint is really loose you may hear it clunk into place (fairly loudly). I've had bad CV joints that squeaked.
Springs are mounted integral with the strut but only the strut itself is normally replaced. A spring compressor is needed to service/replace the struts.
There is a web site with instructions for strut replacements which uses the 850 as the example. Google may help find it.
good luck...
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