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Looking over your previous posts - you've verified a lot of things.
Maybe you should go back to verifying the fuel pressure (as far as I could see you didn't yet do that, unless I missed it). You can check with the gauge for a leaking injector by starting and then cutting off the engine and watching the gauge for a while. On cars of mine without injector leaks the pressure holds for 30 min (as long as I watched it).
You have evidence the engine is flooding, from removing the fuel pump fuse. Is the fuel pump running for longer than a few sec when you turn on ignition but before you try to start? This shouldn't matter too much, unless pressure is high or there is leakage.
I would not suspect the MAF sensor - I think the system must use a substitute value anyway during starting, as there is no air flow yet at that time. Besides, the sensor itself is just a hot wire and a reference wire - either these would be conductive (resistance unknown but probably low) or burnt out (open circuit). If the MAF also has some electronics built in, the resistance could be anything - the components are semiconductors and resistance when not powered is not meaningful (and as you say it depends on the type of meter).
If the fuel pressure is too high or injectors are leaking badly, the car should run way too rich when hot - do I understand that this is NOT the case? If it is very cold outside the car may run ok till the engine is warm (once it starts) even if mixture is very rich.
I wonder if the ECT sensor is ok but some connection or relay (ECT, MAF, Cam position, fuel pump relays, etc) is intermittent - especially when cold. I know you looked at these things but maybe check again? If the engine is running (especially just after a successful cold start) maybe wiggling and poking some things can get it to stop?
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