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G. Squared,
The mechanical tensioner adjustment you provided seems pretty good. It was close to what I did, but not quite, and in some conflict with a Volvo mechanic at my local dealer, and what he told me. What I did was move the indicator from left to right until it was properly aligned. I was working at 90 degrees temperature, so I shaded my alignment further to the right than shown in the example for 68 degrees. I did not take it past the alignment to the right and bring it back as your provided description says to do. The Volvo mechanic I talked to told me to never move the indicator right to left. He stated the mechanism was like a clock escapement and would be damaged. I took my old one and did this, and it seemed to have no effect, so personally I don't believe him, and would have more confidence with what you provided. I did torque to the final setting, but just used "snug" as the initial 4 ft pound setting, when making the adjustment. I also pushed on the belt between the cams and noted the tensioner move and return the set point. After cranking the engine by hand through 4 cycles to gain confidence I didn't mess anything up, I attached everything required to run, but left the engine cover and fender covers off and started it up, let it run less than the 30 seconds Klaus advised, and then checked to make sure the adjustment went back to where I had set it, and it did. Remember when torquing down the tensioner's main bolt to hold steady the adjuster with the 6mm allen. Once torqued, push on the belt and make sure it moves and goes back to the proper setting. Overall, I though it was pretty simple job. I hope some of the other forum members will comment on the correct way to bring the alignment indicator into the correct position. Do it from right to left or left to right, or is all this a bunch of crap and it makes no difference??????
I guess my fender liner may be a bit different. I took off the 2 nuts that hold the metal piece in (I guess this is to prevent rub through). My original tires on the car have always rubbed very slightly at full lock, so I don't turn that far. It seems I remember I could then bend the liner to gain access, but it worried me I might break it bending it so far, so that was why I decided to remove the whole thing. I might go back soon and look again, as to be truthful, getting the rivets off was a real pain in the butt!
BTW, the 1 3/16 socket works out to 30.1 mm. I'd make comment on the accessory belt, but since my intentions were to replace this at the same time, I never considered not removing it. I'm not at all surprised yours has a torx socket, and glad mine had the 14 mm socket, as that made it pretty easy for me.
Through these exchanges we continue to learn (and save some significant cash too)!!!!
Jerry
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