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If the RMS has sprung a very small leak, the replacement of the PCV stuff usually cures it.
Make sure the engine/exhaust is cold/cool before trying to replace the turbo oil seals. It can get pretty hot on the forarms :) Putting the car on ramps makes everything much easier than jacking the front end up and using jack stands. If you have a trouble light with a regular bulb, replace the bulb with one of the new energy saver bulbs to reduce the heat from the bulb, I have burned myself too many times with the trouble light and the old 60W bulb.
As you probably already know, when putting the intake manifold back on, attatch the lower support bracket nut loosly so that it will flop around. When you are ready to attach the upper bolt, tighten the upper bolt than feel down and tighten the lower bolt.
Removing the bevel gear box will entail a lot of work that doesn't need to be done. The bolts for the O ring seals are hard to get to, but still should only take less than 1 hour, including a coffe break after removal :) Re-read the VS post and study the pics. I had planned to do mine, myself, but my wife was in a hurry to get her car running so the dealer was my option. Just 1 hour of labor and a couple bucks in parts. You should not have any trouble.
Remember, if you change the oil, you want the oil warm and not from a cold engine. Cold oil doesn't drain well and leaves sludge behind.
Klaus
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Volvoless. Sold the R. There is now a void...
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