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Mounting CD Changer under passenger's seat
I did it yesterday morning. As mentioned in an earlier post I used the USA Audio changer as commonly found on ebay (for around $250.00) and various car audio dealers (and again, no affiliation with them). The changer appears to be a JVC, but I am not sure. Installation was very easy after a little coaching from the installer who just did one in an 850 wagon a week ago.
Tools required:
Crimping tool
T25 and T30 Torx drivers (I used the ones in my car's tool pouch since I have not yet gotten the T25 and T30 bits and sockets I realize I will need for this car)
Cordless Drill/Driver with Phillips Screwdriver Bit
Phillips Screwdriver (shortish shaft)
1. With passenger seat raised as high as it will go (for installation access) and in the fully forward position, locate the changer and secure to carpet with screws provided. Start them with the driver/drill and tighten by hand. You'll be amazed at the holding power into the carpet.
2. Remove three lower dash panel securing screws with the T25 Torx driver and drop the panel (do not need to remove).
3. Pop the plastic door threshold cover up and out at the front (by dash bottom).
4. Remove radio (be sure you know the code, removal involves popping out two removal pulls and pull the radio, remove connectors on rear, set radio aside).
5. Pass changer end of cable through hole in carpet under seat where seat heater cable passes through.
6. Remove lower dash screw (T30? Was hidden under the door threshold.).
7. Route changer cable along door threshold and behind carpet and lower dash bracket.
8. Install lower dash screw and door threshold.
9. Route changer cable end to radio area.
10. I used wire-tap (they fit over an existing wire and provide a ¼" QCD connection) and insulated ¼" male QDC Crimp-On terminals to make the Accy and Batt B+ connections. Pick your poison there. I used the pin-out information at Bay 13 on volvospeed.com to determine wiring locations and verified them with a meter. On my car the Red with black was Accy and Yellow with Violet was Batt B+ but your car may differ.
11. Connect harnesses/cables to radio and changer. Now is a good time to input radio code and test the system before buttoning things up.
12. Pop radio back into the dash.
13. Bundle up left over cable and leave inside lower dash panel in such a way as to not interfere with panel installation. Use noise reducing materials such as cloth or foam as desired (I didn't and it doesn't rattle). Re-install lower dash panel and secure with three screws.
The entire install too under ½ hour and was about as easy and painless as car audio installation can get. The location is not ideal. It is not super easy to change magazines under the seat. But, you keep your cargo area in a wagon (we are installing a third seat) and you don't loose your glove box space. Once in place there are no visible signs of a changer in the car unless you look directly under the seat. I drove a 100-mile trip yesterday afternoon and there was no skipping whatsoever. Overall, I'm happy with it.
As far as extending the factory cable, I do not know. Best advice is take the car to a good car audio shop and show them the cable connections you wish to extend. The large DIN connectors are pretty common. Also, on the factory changer I am pretty sure you don't need to splice into the Accy and Batt B+ lines…but that was no big deal to do.
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