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derspi,
This article was written for the CVC (Canadian Volvo Club) newsletter, hope it helps...
DETAILING...A BEGINNERS COURSE
To many, the art of detailing is a mystery that eludes many an onlooker attending a car show, show n' shine or club meet. It's not unusual to overhear questions like; How do you get your engine so clean? or... What do you use on your whitewalls? and... What kind of wax do you use? While to many of us, it is simply a labor of love using true and tried methods, others don't know where to begin. So with that in mind, here is what I consider some "basics" to get you started.
To begin, your car requires a good wash. Preferably by hand using a mild soap or any of the paint friendly products found at the auto store. I use a mild dish detergent (a couple of squirts) with a bucket full of warm water. Using a gloved lint free applicator, I do section by section, always keeping the car wet. If possible, avoid the afternoon sun. With every bit of loose dirt removed, dry using a soft, lint free cloth. Drying the windows off first is recommended as drops dry on the glass and are later difficult to remove.
If after washing, some stubborn areas holding grease, tar or other foreign residue is showing, use WD40 and a rag to gently lift and remove the substance. Wipe dry. If your interior hasn't been attended to, now is a good time to remove the mats, vacuum the carpet, and dust using a damp cotton rag. Those with leather upholstery require a two step process. First a cleaner to remove any dirt and grime, and secondly a conditioner for protecting the leather and keeping it soft, at the same time preventing it from drying out. These two products are usually sold together.
Lastly, with paper towel in hand, use any of the popular window cleaning products to give both your exterior and interior glass a spotless look.
For many, the aforementioned is where automobile cleaning begins and ends. But to us auto aficionados, it is simply the prelude to what is commonly know as "detailing". Simply put, we are now going to go to the next level and pay attention to every little detail that sets your car apart from the rest.
To get the exterior plastic, vinyl and rubber trim pieces looking good a popular product is "Armor All". Seldom is a detailer without this product. Sold almost anywhere auto supplies are sold, this old favorite can hide scratches on rubber bumpers, highlight faded vinyl and give plastic a "like new" appearance. There is one exception however...Do not use on your tires! Yes, tires are made of rubber but Armor All will soon turn the tires brown (a reaction to heat maybe?). On occasion you will see a great looking car with "brown" tires and sure enough Armor All was applied to the tires. One method I use is spraying the product on a clean rag first, then wiping the surface area till all excess spray is gone. The same product can be used on the interior surfaces made of the same materials.
With everything else looking good on the outside how do you get the wheels looking great? Steel rims with plastic wheel covers can simply look great using soap and water and little else. Alloy rims on the other hand require a little more care. There are dozens of products out there to get your rims looking good and combat the buildup of brake dust that all of us battle with significant mileage. My advice is to read the labels carefully and determine whether the product (mostly spray-on) is appropriate for your rims. Chrome, Alloys, and polished metals all require something different and if you are not careful, you can strip the clearcoat right off the painted surface. After trying a number of products on my 850, I now use "Eagle One; All Wheel Cleaner". It is safe for ALL wheels and removes brake dust efficiently. For the tires I use "Simoniz" bringing the tired rubber looking shiny and new. I find that this products last the longest with only an application needed every four weeks or so. The instructions say no wiping just spray on and leave, but I found that the residue will spray on to your body panels once the car is in motion. I prefer to apply to rag, then wipe on. Warning; this stuff as do most tire cleaners will stain your asphalt driveway if contact is made. Another good reason to apply with a rag instead of spraying.
At our recent family day an owner wanted to know how we get our whitewalls looking so great. Funny thing, myself and fellow member both answered her question at the same time with the same answer. Steel wool.
I use those tiny SOS pads, with one pad able to do two tires. Gently rub till all the dirt is removed off the whitewall without rubbing to hard. This of course is done before applying the tire conditioner mentioned before.
For chrome parts, and for the older models that actually have real chrome, you can't beat "MAAS". Sold at Cdn Tire, this polishing creme is good for all metals and does a terrific job on chrome. Simply squeeze a small amount from the tube and apply in a circular motion with a clean rag, wipe off with another dry rag. For the "plastic chrome" found around the headlights on a 240 for example, I use Windex window cleaner. In fact, Windex can actually do a pretty good job at any kind of chrome.
Regarding the body, a number of thoughts prevail and everyone has an opinion on the subject. My experience is you are either into polishing or waxing. Many an owner won't go near a wax (including myself) or anything with silicone. I must admit however that manufacturers are coming out with some fantastic products these days and the job of getting your paint job looking great is becoming easier and easier. Wax will seal and protect but in time will buildup a film that begins to haze and is difficult to remove. Polishes on the other hand, actually remove a thin layer of the surface including paint that has oxidized over time. Personally, I use 3M products and I swear by them. They are expensive and difficult to find (here in Canada) but in my opinion they are the best. Two in particular; 3M Hand Glaze that gives a deep wet look and is clear coat safe with no silicones and 3M Gloss Enhancer for that "just waxed" look.
Many an admirer has wondered how we get our engine bays looking so good. Unless you are doing a major overhaul whereby the engine is removed and individual parts are cleaned before assembly, this area can be quite a headache to achieve. There is a method that has worked for me however that requires less time and effort. The first thing you want to do is get rid of all the grease and grime that has built up over the years. Sure enough, if you go to any auto supplier you will find a number of products all known as "de-greasers". One brand in particular seems to be the best and has been around forever. Even my dad remembers using it in England on his Douglas motorcycle in the forties. Labeled "Gunk" this aerosol product will do the best at degreasing and ridding your engine and engine bay of dirt, grime and oil. Do not do this in your driveway as you can imagine the mess left behind. I use my local do-it-yourself coin wash for this job. With the car in bay, engine off and hood up, start by spraying a tiny stream (gentle on the nozzle) on every area of your engine avoiding the painted surfaces. I spray it on the engine block, head, manifolds, electrical components including all relays and connectors, hoses, clamps and plastic parts. Avoid getting it on the painted firewall or inner fenders as this stuff is powerful. So powerful that I ignore the instructions suggesting you wait 15 minutes and start removing it after five minutes. Start your engine and start hosing off all the applied degreaser taking care not to apply to much pressure to the electrical components or other sensitive areas. I have done this on both my 240 and 850 with great results. After returning home you will be shocked at what you have done. The engine and accessories will all look bleached out with this overall blanched look, in fact it looks pretty bad and you think it's the worst thing you could have ever done to your engine, relax. Now take a full container (you'll need it) of "Armor All" and spray everything in site. That's right EVERYTHING. Don't be shy, just go crazy spraying this stuff over all the components including the engine block and other steel parts.
After applying, start wiping off all the excess conditioner. Try and get rid of as much as you can paying close attention to the electrical components and sensors typically found on a newer model. The areas you can't reach or are difficult to wipe just ignore, in time Armor All will evaporate and dry leaving a clean shiny look on all the components. The next day after the engine has had time to completely dry, you will be shocked and impressed at how great your engine bay looks. I did my '94 850 for the first time in it's life this past summer and the engine and engine bay look like new. Very impressive.
Lastly, a note on rags and the products themselves. Try and use all cotton or lint free cloth. Recycling old T-shirts is great for this. I use a different rag for each product applied and store the rag, folded in a ziplock bag. The bag then rests next to the product on the shelf, never drying out. In fact for small touch ups, just removing the rag from the sealed bag is enough as it has held it's moisture. As winter approaches, bring all the products indoors for storage. Leaving them out in the garage all winter will destroy the chemicals found inside as they freeze, thaw and refreeze, leaving the products less then what they were new. Good Luck! and start Detailing!
Tony Giverin
Sept, 2000
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