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Great advice.
You can lift the engine by jacking underneath the oil pan. This is the official Volvo repair procedure as listed in VADIS.
Try to only lift it as much as you need an no more, as VADIS says you can damage the CV Joints on the driveshafts if you make their angles too sharp.
For the passenger's side, use a small piece of 2x4 between the jack and the oil pan so you don't wreck the pan, and make sure your 2x4 is long enough to reach beyond the edge of the pan (to spread the weight the full width of the pan and to use the pan's edges to do the lifting) and short enough that it doesn't catch up on anything when you lift the engine. I also like to try to get it across the section that's made to go around the oil filter, as there is more reinforcement, but VADIS doesn't say anything about this. You will need to unbolt the two horizontal bolts on the lower engine mount, underneath the crank pulley.
For the driver's side, you can jack right against the transmission housing. I think you need to undo the upper engine mount where it mounts to the firewall.
The 4-bolt control arms are a real PITA if you ask me. Worst of all, the place they seem to go bad first is the vulcanization between the mount rod and the bushings at the 'frame end' and replacement bushings assemblies are terribly hard to find and actually rather expensive (~$40 a piece, so $80 for one control arm!! Compare that to ~$15 for a kit for both bushings on the 2-bolt control arms...).
I've been trying to devise a way to either replace the bushings with something else (like rod ends or something) or rebuild the whole control arm using DOM steel, but have yet to come up with anything that I think would work right. I think I could build a complete control arm using DOM steel that would have replaceable bushings and ball joints for about what the OEM control arms costs... Local welding shops seem reluctant to get involved...
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1998 V70 AWD->FWD->AWD Turbo 220k+
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