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There are no A-6 error codes that were reported. I'm going to start with a compression test to see if the compression is at least getting up to a normal level and then may do a leakdown test if I see anything that looks too far out of spec. The car isn't really drivable right now since it has a massive loss of power, but it will turn over and *usually* stay running at idle with the occasional goosing of the gas when it starts to bog down in RPM. I recently put some Marvel Mystery Oil in with a new oil change to see if that may clean things up a bit, but I'm thinking about putting some sea foam in the intake system to see if that cleans things up a bit.
So, recap of where I'm at:
- No error codes related to the engine
- New spark plugs, cap, rotor, and wires (my old wires were actually looking really bad and I've been wanting to replace them anyway)
- Oil change with filter using 15W-30 oil and Marvel Mystery Oil
- Timing belt is old, but is still in good condition. It's very unlikely that it has slipped a tooth but I can certainly check that.
- When the engine starts, it feels like one cylinder is missing very badly. The interesting thing that I found on a test run, though, was that it ran perfectly for a few miles before it began missing again. At this point it misses even cold.
- Spark has been fully tested, so I'm confident that the electrical system is in good shape now
What I need to do:
- Check to see if I at least have the correct voltage for the fuel injectors (yes, I know that this isn't going to tell me if the spray pattern is good, but it's the first step)
- Check the timing of the engine
- Perform a compression test on each cylinder
- Based on the results, I may also perform a leakdown test
- Run sea foam through the intake system to clean out any buildup that may be present
- Re-do the compression or leakdown test to see if things improve
Anybody see anything that I've missed that they think I should check at this point?
Thank you all for your help so far. I really appreciate it!
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