|
Thanks, Klaus. It was "lifting the lid as far as possible," which I discovered while you were typing your post probably, that was the trick. It changes the effective length between the two anchor points just enough that the struts slip right into place.
I did find that the nylon (plastic?) bushings on the FCP parts, at the trunk hinge end, were too thick/long to allow the snap ring to go into its groove. I was able to cut one, although it's a brittle plastic; but the other ran away and hid when I removed it, and I wound up re-using one of the old ones.
Another note, on removing the strut at the front anchor point. There's a kind of lip at the base of that plastic clip. I was able to put the end of a flat-bladed stubby screwdriver against this lip and push up to remove it. Installation was mainly a matter of working my hand in there and pulling down on the rod.
By the way, the Haynes manual I have instructs you to remove the rear "parcel" shelf. Unnecessary; in fact, utterly useless, as best I can tell, at least on my model. It also does not explain clearly that the padded side bolsters (next to the upright part of the seat) that you have to remove have a spring clip about six inches down from the top that you release by pulling the bolster forward in the car (I found having the seatback folded down made it easier). You then lift it out of the clip at the bottom. In re-installing, watch the seatbelt; I had to re-re-install one of them after the belt got hopelessly tangled under the bolster.
|
