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Thanks KlausC for the info. When I say #1 is at TDC I just meant she is up at the top of the cylinder. I did pull the distributor cap and the rotor is pointing at #1, which makes me feel better as well. I clearly see the scribe line across both edges of the harmonic balancer (on each side of where the timing belt runs). I absolutely do not see a notch, grove or what ever on the actual crank gear. When I have the harmonic balancer scribe lines lined up with the forged raised line on the block is when #1 appears to be at the top of its stroke and the rotor is pointing to #1 post. At the same time the two cam pulleys both have 1 and 1/2 teeth to go before they line up with their notches. My current thought was to leave the scribe mark on the HB lined up with the raised forged mark and advance both cam pulleys to the mark and install the belt in that position. I do recall changing the belt on my old 1981 240 DL and the crank markings were on the drive belt pulley edge (I think it was a two belt pully) not on the crank gear. The reason I looked so hard for a mark on the crank gear proper is because some of the guidance out there infers that that is where it is. I am just surprised that both of the cams are off the same amount. Which could mean I had the crank off the mark when I changed the belt at 69K. I did rotate the engine a number of times after changing the belt at 69 and believed all three marks were on target. Unless, unknowingly I was not looking at the crank marks at an angle and had it off. Anyway does my plan/approach have merit or am I causing myself a problem?
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