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Greg,
I normally make the repair in the vechicle, however some do remove the seat. You are right the 4 bolts you saw are the key, note after taking out the 4 bolts you have to slide the seat fwd/rev to actually get it to come up and out, because it is keyed. There are several electrical connectors that should be disconnected on the lower left hand side (front) of the seat. The lumbar support knob will come out by CCW rotation (it's hard towards the end) Just continue turning and pull and it will come off. The hog rig's that hold the seat cover to the frame are normally cut with dikes, you will need about 25 hog rings and hog ring pliers to re-assemble. (Sears has a nice set (bent or streight) for about $20). Start cutting the hog rings at the bottom and begin rolling the seat cover up, slowly and carefully. The sides at the bottom are rolled around plastic frame and are held in place by clips on the side backing. Any way just start rolling up and cutting hog rings as you go. Try to not go up any further than you need to (saves on hog rings). I use a bungie cord to keep the back pulled up and out of my way so I don't have to fight the cover. The back of the seat has a cable (about 2 ft.) that runs across the back of the seat, from the motor to the drive gearing. (problem is that over time the cable shortens and will no longer make connection) There are two set ups one with the motor on the right and the gearing on the left, and the second is with the motor on the left and gearing on the right. (hope for the motor on the right, a little easier) Two 8mm screw/bolts hold a locking plate in place on the top of the motor, take them off and the cable will come out of the motor. The drive gear has a plate, 4 phillips that have to be removed, slowly slide the plate off to work the cable out, there may be a locking clip on the shaft that keeps you from pulling the plate off, if so pull it out (its like a "C" clip). Do all of this stuff slowly and without 20 cups of coffee in you, so if something falls out you will have the patients to get everything back together. re-assemble in reverse, (always hated when I read that on instructions) Once you have got every thing back to gether, and hit the button to move the seat it more than likely will just jump 1mm or so making you wonder if you did something wrong. The motor has a Pot that has more than likely ran into the stops because of the cable not turning, on the old one, just keep clicking the seatback fwd button and the seat will slowly work its way up to the upright position, you are working the pot back into range. I normally make the seat go a little more fwd than you might want it and then try back, then fwd again, until you get the swing you feel is correct. If you were at the dealers they could run a seat motor calibration, but without the Volvo tool the short clicking (many times) will work. Note: You might be temped to add a few extra hog rings when re-assembling, that will not do anything, and it might distort the way the cover looks.
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