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I do all my wheel swapping/rotating using the jacking point designed for
the jack that was supplied with the car. Just like a NASCAR race car,
both tires on one side of the car can be lifted off the ground (I do a
simple front/rear rotation and don't bother with side-to-side) at once.
The factory-supplied jack works fine. I prefer to use a small cheap ($20)
hydraulic rolling floor jack most of the time. It's small lift cup just
cradles the factory jack jacking point.
Use Abe's advice when some kid (who may not have lifted a car like yours
before) at some generic tire store is using a floor lift on your car, or
if you only want to lift one corner of the car.
According to Haynes, Eddie's advice is OK 'cept use the front center of the
of the engine subframe (not "[crossmember] under the engine"). (From
Haynes: "position the jack under the engine subframe at the front centre.")
To lift the rear of the car, Haynes says to use the reinforced plate
below the spare wheel well. (Let us know if that works OK!)
Enjoy your winter rubber. It's nice to not only be able to out-accelerate
and out-handle those moving urban chicanes (SUVs; few of which feel the
need for winter rubber), but also to out-brake them (for when they try to
broadside you as they slide through stop signs at side streets) by an even
larger-than-normal margin of safety.
- Dave; '95 854T, 75K mi
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