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Oh, there you are. I was getting worried - there are cars needin' fixin' round here.
"...why didn't you just move the entire 'alarm' module to the engine bay?..."
In retrospect, I now wish I'd have done that. I thought I was home free by getting the battery out of the siren box and then the siren box would be basically "maintenance free". Plus I didn't want to add one more thing under the hood that made it even harder to replace headlight/side marker bulbs, etc. I guess I could find somewhere to hang it.
The problem I'm having now is that the battery pack isn't recharging. It worked fine for the first couple days until it drained down, then I started getting the alarm system message again. It has drained all the way down to 0.8 volts at the last sampling. If I lock the doors, which sets the alarm, I am guaranteed to get the message the next time I start the car. If I DON'T set the alarm, then there's no message at startup. If I disconnect the battery pack and check for voltage out of the siren box with the engine running, I get zero. I would think there should be something trickling out of it to recharge the battery pack. So apparently the circuit board is worse off than I originally suspected. If I disconnect the battery pack and check for continuity across the the + and - leads to the siren box, it shows a complete circuit which tells me the connection to the circuit board is OK but there must be something wrong in the board because there' no recharge current.
I may head out to the Pick-n-Pull and grab a couple sirens and take them home and cut them open to see if I can come up with one good circuit board. And then mount it under the hood or SOMEWHERE more accessible. At least this time I won't have to surgically remove the security mounting bolt. I replaced that with a torx head.
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Current rides: 2005 Volvo S80 2.5T, 2003 Volvo V70 2.4NA, 1973 Volvo 1800ES (getting ever closer to road worthiness)
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