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A couple weeks ago I posted a question on how to install rear overload springs in a S70. Seems that nobody here knows how to do this. So, I managed to install the springs on my own and am posting some instructions on how I did it. I had done this several times previously on the 240 series.
Tools: 2 jacks, 1 jack stand, Torque wrench, 1/2 socket set and ratchet
1) Car in park, parking brake set. Loosen rear wheel lugs.
2) Jack up car on the first side until the wheels are hanging free. I used a floor jack under the center jack point. You should put something between the jack and the jack point to protect the jack point. I did not do this and ground the ends of the jack point a little bit. I think that Griot's garage has something fits the bill, or you can just use a rag.
3) Put a jack stand under the rear jack point just ahead of the rear wheel. This is where a pro shop's four point jack would meet the car. The jack stand looks a little precarious under this spot, but seemed to hold ok. (If anyone has a better procedure to jack and support on stands, please let me know)
4) Lower the floor jack and then pump it up just a little to offer a bit of support (just in case).
5) Remove rear wheel
6) Using a second floor jack, jack up the rear control arm under the spring to remove the tension. I put a rag between the jack and the control arm to avoid scratching. Even so, some of the undercoating came off. (No big deal...we'll fix later)
7) Loosen and remove the nut on the lower shock mount (on in-board side). Jiggle the shock off the lower mount.
8) Gently lower the rear control arm to remove all of the spring tension.
9) Loosen and remove the nut for the spring mounting plate found on the bottom of the control arm.
10) The spring can now be removed, lower end first. It will help to have a friend push down gently on the rear hub while you lift the bottom of the spring out toward the rear of the car.
11) The top of the spring should pull out bringing the bump stop with it. Unlike the 240, the S70 bump stop is mounted to the top of the spring.
12) Grab your new spring and transfer the mouting plate and bump stop to it. Make sure that the notches on the bumpstop in the rubber line up with the end of the spring.
13) Install the new spring, top side first. The center of the bump stop will fit into the receiver cone that comes down from the top. To get the bottom end in, it again helps to have a friend gently push down on the conrol arm. The spring should then slip in and center over the hole in the control arm.
14) Put the bolt in the center of the mounting plate into the hole in the center of the control arm. The spring should be sandwitched between the mounting plate and the control arm. There is a second notch in the mounting plate that should fit into a second hole in the control that prevents the mounting plate from rotating when you tighten things down. You may need to jack the control arm slightly to get the bolt in the mounting plate to extend through the hole. Take great care if you do this. You are compressing a spring, however slightly, that is not fully secured.
15) Replace and tighten the nut on the mounting plate bolt that is extending through the control arm. Tightening snugly. We'll torque this later.
16) Jack up the control arm so that the lower shock mount aligns with the shock hole. Place the shock back on its mount and replace the washer and nut. I tightened this to 60 lb-fts. I do not know what the right torque spec is, so I took a guess.
17) Lower the control are and remove your jack. Touch up any the the scratches you put on the bottom of the control arm with some 3M undercoating.
18) Replace the wheel.
19) Jack the car at the center jack point so that you can remove the jack stand
20) Lower the car
21) Tighten the wheel lugs to 81 ft-lbs
22) Now its time to torque the spring mounting plate nut. Sqeeze under there and torque to 20 ft-lbs. I did not know the right torque spec, so again, I took a guess. It is critical that you do this step after the weight of the car is on the spring.
23) Repeat this procedure on the other side.
This procedure can be EXTREMELY dangerous, since you are working with a spring under compression. So for the standard disclaimer: I make no guarantee that this procedure will work for you and you do this at your own risk. If you feel uncomfortable with tackling this, find an experienced mechanic who can help or just take it to the shop. It's not worth knocking your head off.
-Ted
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