There is no timing to be set as the ECU (engine control unit) does this on its own, so you just need to make sure you change the engine oil every 3K miles, flush your coolant every 2 (check it with one of those gadgets they sell at any autoparts store where you suck up the fluid into a chamber with lots of little balls), as well as your brake fluid, change your spark plugs every 25K to 30K miles or so (Volvo OEM or Bosch coppers). Also check your ignition rotor for wear and ignition wires for cracks. Change these with a bosch rotor and bougicord wires (fcpgroton.com is a decent place for discounted parts). Your timing belt on a '93 is due every 60K miles. Don't delay if it's time. If it breaks, so does your engine. At the same time, change the service (serpentine) belt. If this is your second change, change the tensioners, rollers, idler arm and water pump and water pump gasket on the timing belt side. Also, if this is your second serp. belt change, change it's tensioner (these extra parts are changed every other belts' changes). Another thing you might check is your transmission fluid. If never changed, consider flushing it (good write-ups on this over on www.matthewsvolvosite.com ). If you flush it, it needs to continue to be flushed every 30K miles or so. If your PCV system (oil trap, flame trap, small vacuum hoses to the top of the engine and to the side where the throttle body is) has never been serviced, get this done (this is preventative maitenance too to keep engine seals from leaking). Depending on the age of your car and amount clogged, this may take replacing the entire system. While you're at it, get your throttle body (butterfly opening) thoroughly cleaned. That's about it for the engine/tranny/ignition parts- typical of what folks call a "tune-up."

Other than the above, to be really road worthy (as winter is coming), check your front end suspension for wear and clunking. Change struts, shocks, strut and shock mounts and springs seats as well as swaybar endlinks if needed. Also check for play in the control arms (A-arm which includes the ball joint). On your model year the ball joint can be replaced out of the control arm. Last of all, make sure your brakes are working correctly and you have pad left. You can go 2 pad replacements before having to replace your rotors (your car is non-turbo so this makes sense). Don't turn your rotors even if they are slightly grooved. Your pads will adjust. If you are told to turn them, then go ahead and change them too. Check tire wear...always a good indicator of how your suspension is holding up. If tread is bad, change them. If you get a lot of snow, consider getting steel wheels and mounting snow tires until the spring.

Guess that's about it. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
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1998 S70 T5 Emarald Green Metallic (125K), 2004 V70 2.5T Ruby Red (45K), Previous Owner of Black '94 850 Turbo Wagon (Sold at 140K and miss her). My cars have been running so well lately they've got me worried.