Year of car and engine type do matter and change things a little. If your mileage is under 150K miles and you have always used synthetic engine oil, the breather box is probably reasonably clean.
If you have a turbo, LPT or HPT, clean the nipple where the vacuum hose attaches to the air intake just before the turbo inlet - be careful, the plastic tends to get brittle.

As far as using automotive type hose clamps with screws, I also prefer those over the crimp style. The crimp style can be loosened with a screwdriver and reused. I use a pair of cutting dykes to re-crimp them. Dont use the hardware style clamps, the open backs will cut the hoses.

Depending on the engine and year, I have always said that 5 hours of DIY "should" do it. If the manifold gasket is not torn, reuse it. The FCP gasket is worthless, I wonder what part of Bangladesh they got it from?

The injector rail does not need to be removed from the manifold! But the fuel line does need to be loosened. It looks like there are 2 fuel lines, but one of them is just a vacuum line for the FPR at the rear of the car. If you take the fuel rail off, it will cost you an extra hour for R&R, and the 2 aluminum bolts get torqued at 11 INCH pounds, just snug.

There is a bracket below the manifold to help hold it up. After removing the bolt for the dip stick, remove the upper bracket bolt. It is blind, but just feel for it. When reinstalling the manifold, the lower bracket bolt must be very loose, finger tighten all of the manifold bolts and then attach the upper bracket before tightening down the lower bracket bolt.

If you think you need more room, remove the engine fan before starting. Very easy to do, just don't forget to put it back!!
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My name is Klaus and I am a Volvoholic.