I think there are at least three different methods of getting the hub loose enough to swap axles.

I remember having trouble loosening the ball joint when I replaced my axle, so I took a different route and removed the two bolts that the control arm pivots on. I suppose at this same step you could break loose the ball joint first, and then remove the two frame bolts. I believe I basically used the procedure over at bay13 for wheel hub R&R.

It has been a few years. I think the procedure for axle R&R I used was:

~Break the 36mm axle nut loose
~Detach the sway bar end link (sway bar end link removed allows easier manipulation of hub without fighting strut assembly)
~Raise car, remove wheel and support car on jack stand
~Remove caliper and support with coat hanger from strut spring
~Remove rotor
~Remove ABS connector and stow wiring out of the way
~Loosen axle nut until flush with end of axle and whack with BFH
~Continue loosening and whacking until axle breaks free
~Remove control arm to frame bolts
~Push axle out of hub and support end of axle
~(On passenger side, remove the journal bearing under the car)
~Pull axle out of transmission (an ounce or two of fluid leaks out)
~On driver's side, axle is harder to remove and requires prying carefully so as to not damage the press-in seal

Some people are strong proponents of replacing the tranny seals - probably a good idea, though mine wasn't leaking and I didn't.

I'm thinking that if you used this procedure you could add breaking the ball joint loose just before loosening the pivot bolts at the frame.

Good luck! I'm sure others will chime in with other procedures and tips, and I probably forgot something.

Don