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Peter,
Yes, you have lost a bulb and all bulbs behind the instrument panel are accessed by removing the entire dash cover. There are torx screws found underneath the front speaker grills, top of main instruments, and at side vents...all totalling 12 I believe. It is time consuming, and the only way.
If you can't be bothered with the fuss, you are looking at minimal labor (around 1hr) at the dealer and the cost of the bulb. FWIW, I have dimmed all my instrument/switch bulbs (using the dimmer) to about 90%. Since doing so, I have not had to replace a single bulb (over a year now)...prior to dimming, I was replacing bulbs all the time...
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