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I recently changed out the 4 main lights and the clock light for good measure. It's a pretty straight-forward procedure. Check out Volvospeed Bay 13 for the instructions on Dash Removal.
I purchased the lights from Ebay and they "browned out" within a few days so I had to re-do the procedure. I ended up buying the main lights from the local Autozone; they didn't have the small clock lightbulb in stock so I left the Ebay one in place (so far, so good), that may be a dealer item.
Just be careful when you re-install the dash, I cracked the plastic trim next to the windshield when I was pushing the dash back into place.
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