Can't help with the cams, but try a search for "cracked block" "JB Weld" etc. in BRICKBOARD ARCHIVES. Some stuff I came up with....

From the 7xx/9xx FAQs:

http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/960_90Info.htm

"Porous 960 B6304 Blocks"

"Repair Notes from Tom Irwin] I've seen 3 of these buggers come through the shop in 2 weeks. Guess what? They are 94, 95 and 96 Model years!! But.... we have had VERY good luck using "JB Weld" (heavy-duty epoxy) after very careful surface preparation. My "Mad Genius" boss has perfected THAT treatment... So, this doesn't necessarily mean a $5,600 short block... more like $3.99 at Pep Boys. To get good access, you must either go topside and pull the exhaust manifold out, or, go underneath and drop the subframe. Once in there, hit it good with solvent and clean it up with a wire brush. Some guys still peen it up first, but the mad genius strafes the surface with an abrasive flexible wheel in a die grinder.. Criss-Cross, buffet, tap-tap-tap, til it is crosshatched enough to anchor the goo. Mad Genius uses JB Quik, I would prefer the 15 hour cure stuff, but, time is money! The one today, was actually a comeback... not that the repair failed, but because another leak sprung up, missed it the first time. I found it down in the gulley of a casting extrusion, easy to miss when looking upward at it. So, learn a lesson and use a mirror to see what you might be missing."

ALSO.....

"Re: Cracked block, anybody seen this before?𖑀/85] posted by Al on
Saturday, 16 December 2000, at 4:40 p.m.

"Cracked block....JB Weld type....If you can get to the damaged area...there are two products I have used on industrial engines very successfully...each is a cold paste applied polymeric type poduct...not cheap but it works when done correctly..look for THORTEX (try www.thortex.com) or BELZONA ( not sure of their web)...cost several hundred dollars for the kit....but well worth it...in any repair (weld, filling, etc.) the crack must be terminated (drill a hole at each end of crack as well as each turn or split off of crack) to prevent "crack creep"..."V" out crack between drilled holes...clean and decrease the repair area with a good decreaser (usually comes with kit) which leaves no residue...the secret here is CLEAN...mix the two part paste, wet out the area with the paste and smear it on.....let cure or help it along with a hair dryer....if you get the kit follow instruction to a "T"...I have done off road vehicle engines as well as large truck engines (diesel and gas) and auto engines...either product is not for use in high heat areas (exhaust flanges, pipes, headers, combustion chambers, etc.) Takes a good days work (and then some) to do the job."