I just yanked out my cluster, replaced all the bulbs, and replaced the gear that drives the odometer. Some thoughts:
1) Disconnect the turbo line (if you have one) from the back of the cluster. It comes off quite easily as opposed to disconnecting it from the hose down by the hood release. I did it the way Bay 13 recommended and found it the most time consuming part of the procedure
2) I bought a used cluster from eBay. There are minor differences even within the same year and model. If your odometer stops working, go online and by the gear for $25. I bought the bulbs from the dealer. You can get them on ebay and save $5 or so.
3) I completely pulled apart the cluster (you have to remove about 25 screws) and worked my way to the odometer. I reset it by hand to match my milage (being a somewhat honest guy). It's a lot of twisiting and aligning the sumbers. Not unlike a rubric's cube.

Anyway, it took a few hours. I saved a couple hundred bucks and have that deep down DIY satisfaction! Thanks Bay 13 and Brickboard!