It's been a very long time since replacing any bulb (will explain later) but I recall removing the ashtray (two screws), another two screws at the coin tray and one other screw found under a tab inside the centre armrest. The entire centre console will lift out, but still attached by wiring. The bulb is unique to Volvo and will have to be purchased from a dealership. After going to all this trouble, dim your instruments lamps from 100% brilliance to say around 90% brilliance and you will never have to replace a bulb again.