1) Your person choice of either one side or both. I did both sides.
2) No need to touch the brake at all.
3) I used a floor jack to raise the brake rotor until the new A-arm is level with the ground. Then torqued the nut/bolt to spec. You can lower the car with the wheels on, but room is very tight to get to the nut/bolt to tighten them up to the correct torque spec.
4) No special tools are needed, set of 3/8" and 1/2" metric socket, 12" long big chisel, 3 lbs hammer. The chisel and hammer are for the ball joint release from the knuckle. When driving the chisel into the gap of the ball joint holder, make sure that you have something to hold the brake rotor in place (not to move when you hit the hammer). Otherwise, the whole brake assembly and steering knuckle would move when you hit the hammer. You would waste you effort and not able to open up the ball joint holder to let the ball joint to drop down.

Ching-Ho Cheng
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1995 855 NA, Bilstein Strut & Shocks, Volvo Protective Grill, K&N Filter, E-Code Lens, ClearCorner Light, Alpine CD-Changer, AutoDim RearView Mirror, 6000K HID