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A different No Cranky problem, partially resolved. Can it Be? 700

posted by  igtc on  Thu Nov 10 09:39 CST 2005
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last visit: Thu Aug 30 14:49 CST 2007
[RELATED]

1990 740 GL Rex 212K

For some while (1-1/12 years), I have battled "No starting, and cranking" issues. Everytime, I get one resolved, I have another, of a different nature.

However, this time, I have time to do full diagnoses, and rebuild things. I am not a volvo mechanic, but by trade, a electro-mechanical technician.

Problem: While attempting to start engine, there is the fuel pump whine, Relay clicks, dash lights on, but no Cranky (cranking). In the past, I have replaced RSR, and even have two spares, Fuel pump relays, and pump, RPM Sensor, and your normal tune-up items(s plugs, etc..).

Anyway, I have found out how to start my car each and everytime. It may not be the wisest, but until I replaced the part needed, it gets me to work on time, or anywhere else I need to go. What I have to do, is get my trusty jumper tool, a long prybar. While the key is in the running postion (dash lights on), I jump my positive + & negative - leads at the starter together. My brick starts each and everytime.

2nd Problem: I do have the problem, sometimes of my key stays stuck in cranking position, and the car runs with no accesories, after immediately starting. As long as I put the key back in the running pos, this hasn't been a problem. However, somewhere along the line, I learn the ignition switch behind the key module, is the culprit. Thought I read, but can't find how to re-build it.

Somewhere else I read, that if I can start the car, by ignition key bypass, the actual switch could, also be the problem.

Could replacing this ceramic ignition switch resolve both issues?

So, last week I removed under dash cover, and took out the ign. switch, and thought I could rebuild it. That didn't appear to be as easy as I thought. So, I put it back in, thinking (electronically), maybe re-seating it would delete my cranking problem. Nope!!!

BTW: I was able to start after separating switch from key insert itself, and rotating it with screwdriver.

In earlier posts, I thought this was related to cold weather vs. warm changes. This is now, irrellevant. Problem may occur 2 out of 25 working cranks(more or less).

I re-tightend post on starter several months back.

Am I barking up the right tree, or am a climbing an Oak, and should be on a Willow Tree?

Thanks,
Kevin
1990 740 GL Rex 212K







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    A different No Cranky problem, partially resolved. Can it Be? 700

    posted by  c_j_mooney on  Thu Nov 10 09:51 CST 2005
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    last visit: Wed Sep 14 17:39 CST 2011
    [RELATED]

    If by rotating the switch with a screwdriver you could start, but not with it installed & using the key, the problem almost certainly lies in the switch itself. I had the same issue on my '83. The PO, my grandfather, had a no-crank no-start problem that the dealer "repaired" by rebuilding the starter, asserting that it was worn out. This, on a garaged car with 70,000km. So $250 later, still the occasional no-start, eventually it became all the time. I too carried a screwdriver to start my car by jumping the solenoid terminal. (By doing that you've already established that the problem isn't in the starter or the solenoid. So it's either wiring - unlikely - or the switch.) Finally I took my switch apart by prying out the crimped edges on the casing and bent the rotating contacts down very slightly, just enough that there'd be a more solid connection. Stuck it back together and tapped the crimped metal edges back into place --- that was in 1996. Still good, 65,000km later.
    --
    Chris, Dartmouth NS Canada 70 M-B 280SE, 83 245DL, 84 244 turbo, 90 780 turbo, 92 VW Golf, 90 740 Rex/Regina








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      A different No Cranky problem, partially resolved. Can it Be? 700

      posted by  igtc on  Wed Nov 23 08:40 CST 2005
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      last visit: Thu Aug 30 14:49 CST 2007
      [RELATED]

      Thanks cj, I will attempt to open it up again. And check this out next week.







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