A few days ago I posted regarding fuel leaks at some of the fittings on our 81 245 DL:

http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1026645

Though snugging down the fittings, trying new washers did not help, I did find one of the problems...perforated fuel line between the fuel distributor and the control pressure regulator, the small line, at the regulator end. This was where the leakage was worst.

In doing a search on these plastic fuel lines the consensus is that these are not a DIY repair. I'm not clear on whether the underhood lines can be replaced by retaining the fittings and using some fuel injection hose and clamps, but I figure no.

Anyone know what kind of money I'm looking at from the dealer or other vendor? Anyone using lines from a VW, Porsche, Audi, Mercedes, Delorean, etc. K-jet system. There is a dearth of K-jet cars, meaning none, in the yards around here...

Greg

Dealer wanted $60 for a new fuel line to replace my busted one. Unfortunately, I had no luck piecing my own line back together, and to be honest with you I really wasn't all that confident in my skill in that regard anyway.

What I did was go to two yards on Saturday. When I said there was a dearth of K-jet cars I meant K-jet Volvos. Once one starts looking at VWs, Audis, Porsches, Bimmers, Saabs, and Mercedes it's really amazing how many types of cars used this fuel system. I found K-jet on an Audi 90 from what I estimate to be the mid to late 1990s, didn't confirm the date for sure! So I pulled about 10 fuel lines in good shape, hard metal and braided stainless, for the total cost of $8, some busted knuckles, and freezing my tail off! For those that are interested I had the best luck with the VW Rabbit, Jetta, and Fox and the Audi 5000 and 90.

But it was well worth it as I found one line that was almost the exact size to fix the busted one, installed it and the leak is gone. Also took apart and cleaned the control pressure regulator for good measure. The other "leaks" I had look to have been fuel squirting all over and projecting from that one busted line. So far everything is high and dry. I'm going to to some more checks before buttoning the car back up.

Thanks to c_j_mooney and 81242DLB21FCA for your advice and for helping to keep me away from full freak-out mode. Chris, if your offer still stands I may contact you about that car you're parting out so that I can have a few of the proper Volvo lines in reserve.

Greg

I've repaired k-jet plastic lines by very carefully slitting the line down the side of the fitting with a razor blade, being very careful to NOT scratch the fitting. Then cut the tube back beyond the break (which is generally caused by bending it too far and crimping it in my experience) and - here's the tricky part - warm it and force the fitting into it. A pan of boiling water is my first choice for heating the line without blowing myself up, and beats a heat gun because you can localize the application of heat. When it's warm enough the line becomes elastic enough to slide over the fitting, a bit at a time, but be careful not to buckle the line as you push the fitting in.

If this doesn't work then email me, I'm parting out a 240 turbo in the next week or two and if the line is the right length for your car (the dist. & regulator are in different spots on the turbo vs. NA), then it's yours for the price of shipping + $5.
--
Chris, Dartmouth NS Canada 70 M-B 280SE, 83 245DL, 84 244 turbo, 90 780 turbo, 92 VW Golf, 90 740 Rex/Regina

The Polyarimide tubing is available but the tools and techniqes may only be known by the mechanics that worked on K-Jetronic systems from when it first appeared sometime in the early seventies, I think. However, the tubing manufacturer must have recommended practices information avilable. From a practical stand point, you are probably looking at new from a dealer or used from a junkyard by mail. There are Volvo specialty yards around the country but it has been along time since my database was exercised.