First of all, I have to say it, but replacing a fan motor on a 240 with a used one is like replacing a bald tire with a different bald tire. They're ALL bad from the get-go (essentially).

That said, the A/C may be a combination of a number of factors.

1. If you didn't replace the condenser with a cross flow condenser (1993 style) then it won't work as well.

2. There is a grille condenser fan on the 1991-1992 model 240 that runs based on condenser pressure (high side pressure). There is also a pressure switch that is located on the high side near the oil filter. The harness can be jumped and the effect will be, the fan will run whenever the A/C is turned "on" (snowflake switch is on). This helps a lot.

3. A converted unit not done properly may be weak anyway (compressor weak) and the only way to find that is to test the high side readings with the low side readings to make sure that the conversion was done properly and the pressures are good.

4. The FOT (fixed orifice tube) must have been replaced or the conversion will work poorly.

5. The heater control valve may be operating poorly as well, allowing hot air to enter the mix.

6. Based on what you've said (5) is not likely. The cycling compressor is FINE, as R134a operates on different pressure-to-temperature curve than R12, and it certainly is adequate if the compressor cycles frequently, but the unit cools well also (common). Most R134a conversions are overcharged on the 240 series from what I've seen.

7. A visit to a good A/C shop should identify the problem, but make sure they're reputable because a lot of people promise everything and deliver much less. I have done a lot of A/C conversions for 240/740/940 series models (similar units) and doing a proper conversion in the 240 usually results in an "OK" cooling result. The 740/940 almost always result in excellent conversions. Use the tip in (2) for best results in any R134a conversion in a 240 series car.

I would recommend taking it to a good, reputable AC shop that is experienced with Volvos, or a Volvo master mechanic that is recommended by a fellow Volvo enthusiast or posted on one of the club websites. You can call George Dill in Temple, Texas to see if he knows anyone. he's the President of the Texas Volvo Club (www.texasvolvoclub.com) Get at least 2 opinions. It could be something as cheap and easy as needing a recharge, and it could be more complex like a compressor or evaporator.

My former Volvo mechanic replaced the evaporator on mine with one from an early Ford explorer and it improved the performance of the AC tremendously. Unfortunately I don't know the part number but this is apparently a system improvemen that is well known to mechanics.

I've been told by a master mechanic that R134 ruins the seals in systems that had been freon based, so it's probably just a series of things that you can do as follows:

Replace the dash AC switch (about $20)They wear out

Have the mechanic replace the seals and recharge the system

See how it works. If it still tapers off and stops cooling well and/or the compressor doesn't kick in check the wiring from switch to compressor and replace if needed. If compressor needs replacement you can get a good remanufactured one from NAPA for about 1/4 the cost of a new one.

Another thing that causes problems with the AC system is, believe it or not, the ignition contact switch. They are wired through the dash and cause short circuts. keep in mind you've got an older car that is subjected to a lot of heat so the wiring may be shot or needing repair in places or perhaps the wiring harness needs replacement.

None of these are terribly expensive but they will set you back a little.

Good luck!

I would recommend taking it to a good, reputable AC shop that is experienced with Volvos, or a Volvo master mechanic that is recommended by a fellow Volvo enthusiast or posted on one of the club websites. You can call George Dill in Temple, Texas to see if he knows anyone. he's the President of the Texas Volvo Club (www.texasvolvoclub.com) Get at least 2 opinions. It could be something as cheap and easy as needing a recharge, and it could be more complex like a compressor or evaporator.

My former Volvo mechanic replaced the evaporator on mine with one from an early Ford explorer and it improved the performance of the AC tremendously. Unfortunately I don't know the part number but this is apparently a system improvemen that is well known to mechanics.

I've been told by a master mechanic that R134 ruins the seals in systems that had been freon based, so it's probably just a series of things that you can do as follows:

Replace the dash AC switch (about $20)They wear out

Have the mechanic replace the seals and recharge the system

See how it works. If it still tapers off and stops cooling well and/or the compressor doesn't kick in check the wiring from switch to compressor and replace if needed. If compressor needs replacement you can get a good remanufactured one from NAPA for about 1/4 the cost of a new one.

Another thing that causes problems with the AC system is, believe it or not, the ignition contact switch. They are wired through the dash and cause short circuts. keep in mind you've got an older car that is subjected to a lot of heat so the wiring may be shot or needing repair in places or perhaps the wiring harness needs replacement.

None of these are terribly expensive but they will set you back a little.

Good luck!

I would recommend taking it to a good, reputable AC shop that is experienced with Volvos, or a Volvo master mechanic that is recommended by a fellow Volvo enthusiast or posted on one of the club websites. You can call George Dill in Temple, Texas to see if he knows anyone. he's the President of the Texas Volvo Club (www.texasvolvoclub.com) Get at least 2 opinions. It could be something as cheap and easy as needing a recharge, and it could be more complex like a compressor or evaporator.

My former Volvo mechanic replaced the evaporator on mine with one from an early Ford explorer and it improved the performance of the AC tremendously. Unfortunately I don't know the part number but this is apparently a system improvemen that is well known to mechanics.

I've been told by a master mechanic that R134 ruins the seals in systems that had been freon based, so it's probably just a series of things that you can do as follows:

Replace the dash AC switch (about $20)They wear out

Have the mechanic replace the seals and recharge the system

See how it works. If it still tapers off and stops cooling well and/or the compressor doesn't kick in check the wiring from switch to compressor and replace if needed. If compressor needs replacement you can get a good remanufactured one from NAPA for about 1/4 the cost of a new one.

Another thing that causes problems with the AC system is, believe it or not, the ignition contact switch. They are wired through the dash and cause short circuts. keep in mind you've got an older car that is subjected to a lot of heat so the wiring may be shot or needing repair in places or perhaps the wiring harness needs replacement.

None of these are terribly expensive but they will set you back a little.

Good luck!

Here, you won't need any air conditioning at all.
--
Sven: '89 245, IPD sways, electric rad. fan conversion, 28+ mpg - auto tranny. 850 mi/week commute. '89 245 #2 (wifemobile). '90 244 (spare, runs).

Sounds like it is low on refrigerant. R134a is a smaller molecule than R12 and seems to be more leak prone, especially in converted systems. You can charge it yourself with a kit from any auto parts store. Advance Auto Parts sells a good leak stop product, I forget the name brand. If the leak is bad, this is a waste of time. You'll end up spending more keeping it charged than you would if you had it fixed properly by a competent licensed AC service technician that will likely gaurantee his results.
When I was in high school, I would have done illegal things to get a car like this, with air conditioning.

-Check the belt to the compressor and replace with a Volvo belt which fits the compressor pulley best. Auto Zone belts squeal more

-It could need a charge but if it does, it may leak more afterwards. But the pressostat on the right side of the reciever dryer would have shut the compressor off if pressure was below a certain point like 10 pounds.

-If the charge is gone and you open the system, replace o-rings and check the orifice tube. You unscrew the black tube going into the firewall to the evaporator and you will see a little thing that you pull out. It is a filter and if it's full of black gook and metal chips, then your compressor is near the end. Some dude on e-bay will sell you a new one for $125 that he rebuilds in China.

Check the piping at the AC Compressor. The feed pipe from/to the condenser has a habit of being abraided by the PS hoses and the PS Chassis and can leak thru wear. My 92 had a failure at this point that only happened when the PS bushings were changed and the PS unit was back in the proper orientation. The AC pipe was the one on the engine side that makes a 180 turn before going down to the
condenser.
It can be replaced by a used part w/out a problem.

Mistake to go through all the labor of a blower motor to put in a used one. New ones are pretty cheap ... I think you can get a full kit (switch, resistor, Siemens motor) from Autozone.com for $60.

If the refridgerant pressure is too low, the compressor will not kick on. A competant A/C shop can take care of diagnostics, leak detection, and refilling.

-- Kane
--

While I would never deliberately mislead anyone, take into consideration that any info and advice was provided at no cost to you.