This is hard to describe in the subject header... However
I have replaced the steering rack, tie rod ends (outer, inner were good on the used rack) ball joints, strut mounts, strut inserts, sway bars and lower sway bar bushings (but not the endlinks) ball joints.
they symptoms are: when I crank the wheel in reverse hard over it will pop really loud. It does not do this if just sitting cranking the wheel hard over both ways, only if moving.
I am guessing that the next step is replacing the rear control arm bushings, but I searched the archieves and found no report of these particular symptoms. I have no clunking going over bumps.
This is driving me nuts after replacing all rear bushings, and the work on the front end... I am telling you nuts!!! Any input or reasurance that the rear control arm bushings are the culprit would be appreciated!
Car in question is a 84 244gl
tia

You've probably already seen this, but just in case it helps, here it is again:

Here’s an IPD Tech Tip for front end clunks. Maybe this will help.

Check the following first:

Front crossmember bolts (2 on each side) accessed from each side of the engine compartment. 17 mm socket, loosen one-half turn, torque to 55 ft pounds.

A-Arm front bushing bolts (2 total) accessed from under the car behind the steering rack bellows. With weighted suspension, 19 mm socket, loosen a bit, torque to 54 ft. lbs.

A-Arm rear bushing mounts, three bolts each side, 14 mm socket, loosen a bit, torque to 29 ft lbs.

Rear A-Arm nut is hard to reach, torque to 40 lbs.

My son's car clunked like crazy. It had very loose A-Arm rear bushing mount bolts. Torqued them and the clunk disappeared. Free and easy.
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Thanks for all the help. DougC. 1981 242 Brick Off Blocks, Turbo bars and wheels, M46. 1990 245, auto, 113k. 1993 245, M47, 154k.

Engine and Transmission mounts may need replacement.

Hard turn into parking lots or in reverse.
The shop tighteneg the cross member mounting bolts...all better.
Luck
Miguel
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My First Volvo - stock (for now) '84 244, 230+kmi. Owned it since 9/03

I've been fighting a similar problem in my '90 and have done most of the things you have done. The problem seemed to improve a lot with the new steering rack, but is not completely gone.

A thought - Based on my experience with tire wear, the rear end tends to favor the right rear wheel. Anything that causes the torque to shift the left rear wheeel, or a reverse action on the right rear wheel, is going to shift pretty much anything that is loose in the rear end (control arm, torque rods, or differential) and could cause a pop????

Have you checked the torque on the nut for the rear control arm bushing? Maybe it is loose, and 'popping' back and forth?
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Gary Gilliam Sumerduck VA, '94 940 Regina 165k '86 240 195k

I havent checked that yet, but it has occured to me. I figured I am going to replace them this week anyway...
thanks for the response
chris

oh and it does not do in in forward, just in reverse...