Since my 544 has been in pieces for years and I am just re-assembling it now, I have forgotten the orientation of the stamped-steel motor mount brackets. One is shorter than the other. Can anybody clue me in as to which bracket goes where? I currently have the short one on the driver's (distributor) side of the motor. Any help is greatly appreciated as I am shortly dropping the motor in and the brackets are much easier to switch with the motor out. Thanks very much.

Thanks to all for their input on my bracket dilemma. As it turns out, I found the answer, and my brother (who I did consult with) is on the endangered species list because of that. He is restoring a 123GT, and when I dropped off our shared engine hoist at his house today, I checked out his motor, sitting with his brackets installed, ready to go into the engine bay. The 120-130 series also have unequal length brackets, but you cannot make a mistake on them because they also have a forward angle to their design. The bottom line, for anyone facing this question on a 544 in the future, is that the shorter bracket does indeed go on the distributor side of the motor. Thanks so much to everyone that offered their help. As it stands, the OL HAWG's motor is now in place and we are one step closer to having it back in service. And thanks to the BrickBoard Forum. A donation is definitely on the way to the tip jar.

My 63 Volvo 544 makes a knocking/ crunching noise when straining on steep hills sometimes and always on hard right turns (especially if powering through the turn). I Wonder if the motor mount could be the issue?

I dont think the right and left mounts are different. At least on mine they arent.
dean

i fixed my 63 Volvo 544 knocking/ crunching noise when straining on steep hills sometimes and always on hard right turns (especially if powering through the turn) by removing the lower motor mount nuts, jacking the engine and putting a 1/4" thick aluminum shim on the left side only.

The car had a front engine collision many years ago and the timing cover on the motor was occasionally hitting the steering gear box.

I never realized they were different but I checked the part no's and the left is 662039-7, the right is 662040-5. That doesn't tell us much except there's an even chance if mine are on right or wrong.

Sorry, I never noticed any difference in mine. If I went out to check they'd have a 50/50 chance of being on the 'wrong' side following two motor swaps (replacement of the B18 with a B20, and a rebuild of the B20).

Both of mine did have cracks last time I looked closely at them. Little stress cracks, developing in the angled area.
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.

The frustrating part of all this is that I know the difference between the two, where they should go and why, but they are locked up in a 55 year old mind that is not releasing the details! The motors have been in and out of this car so many times in the last 35 years that at one time I was going to put zippers on the bellhousing. This car was a summer daily driver/ gymkhana/ track car and the motors were shared with an ice racer for 4 or 5 years. I am just grateful for all the input as I reassemble the car for another attack on its virtue. By the way, OL HAWG is a handle the car picked up 30 years ago; it's not me! Thanks for all the input.

In the vein of porcine nicknames - have you ever heard of the Volvo 'Sugga'? Sugga is Swedish for 'sow'. The Sugga was a military vehicle that Volvo built to patrol the snow packed forests of the Swedish border in the winter. It is the curious combination of the full sized (in the true American sense) PV800 series car body:


...mounted on a very capable and heavy duty military 4WD chassis. Leading to a very pleasing Frankenstein-ish beast that was half vintage sedan, half monster truck:



The overal rounded, humped style lead the people in the Swedish Army to nickname it the 'Sow', or Sugga.
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.

I have a 64 544 and the motor mounts at a glance look the same. However the right one (drivers side) measures about 1/4 inch shorter. It also has a small notch in the outside of the bottom part that sits on the mount. This may (or may not) be a indicator of which side it goes on. good luck.

I'll have to check on mine, perhaps swap them. The bellhousing will occasionally bump the tunnel at the firewall, I think this is more due to the taller 164 motor mounts I'm using, but if I could nudge it to the left a tiny amount by swapping the brackets it would be perfect.
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I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.

I saw that notch on my 1/4" shorter, left side mount, but neglected to mention it. A wishful rationale that the notched item goes on the left, the way we found ours: Cars using left-hand threaded lug nuts, which are used on the left side of the car, typically have notches cut into the six corners of the hex for easy identification.

C.O. Greenlaw, Sacramento

I should have said LEFT side instead of right side, but drivers side is correct.

Since I have had no responses, maybe I need to clarify my dilemma. The stamped steel brackets that bolt to the engine block for my 544 motor mounts are slightly different. Set side-by-side on a bench in their attachment position, one bracket is shorter than the other, ie: the centerline of the hole for the rubber mount stud is closer to the vertical mounting face on one of the mounts. Because of this, the engine will be slightly offset in the engine bay one way or the other, depending on which bracket is bolted where. I just need to know where to bolt the shorter bracket. Any ideas are greatly welcomed. Thanks so much.

I find the left side (distributor side) mount in my fully assembled '66 544 is the short one. It is about 1/4" shorter than the one on the carb side.

Measured in place with old Starret A-shaped calipers built to replicate inside dimensions, each mount measured in the same way. I'm confident which one is the shorter; the 1/4" is by eye and refers to the mount body extreme lateral dimension straight out from the flange on the engine, not to the rubber pad's bolt. Bolts appear to be about equally far in from mount body edge.

Caveat: existing mount positioning is by unknown mechanics before the PO got the car. Engine probably not original.

C.O. Greenlaw, Sacramento