Currently parting out our 1981 245DL and I'm having a little problem separating the outer tie rod ends from the steering arms. When I turn the nut holding the tie rod end stud to the steering arm (spindle, whatever) to loosen it, the tie rod end stud turns along with it. Am I missing something obvious here, or are the tie rods ends broken, etc.?

Many thanks for any help,
Greg

Try DArmstrong's suggestion. The TRE shaft is coned. Pushing it up causes it to grip better. So lowering the TRE onto something (eg. axle stand) may work.
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont.

If all else fails a nut-cracker will take care of the job quickly. Cheap quality units from the "OEM" brand are available at a low price from most parts houses.

I hold the arm with vise grips. Turn the tie rod end counterclockwise to remove. The nut functions as what I call a "stay". It keeps the tie rod end from rotating. To separate the nut from the tie rod end, turn it clockwise. It is quite possible the whole assembly will need a good soaking of Penetrating oil.

Thanks, Chuck, for your quick response. I'm not sure we're talking about the same thing. I know there is a nut that keeps the tie rod end from rotating relative to the rest of the steering rack. Once you get your alignment set, this nut holds everything in place.

What I'm talking about is where the very end of the tie rod end attaches to the wheel and brake assembly, if you will. On most cars on which I've done front end work, you loosen this nut a bit, use a pickle fork or some such tool to separate the tie rod end from the assembly, then loosen the nut the rest of the way. The tie rod end then falls away from the wheel assembly. But in this instance, the tie rod end stud just turns with the nut when I try to loosen it.

You're saying turn the nut clockwise? In other words, completely against the "righty-tighty" convention. I guess I didn't look closely at the threads to see if they were reverse. I'm using an impact gun so it would seem that overcoming corrosion would not be too great a problem.

Or am I misunderstanding you?

Thanks,
Greg

Can you get a jack under the base of the tie rod end? If you get enough force pushing up at that point, it should prevent it from spinning as you try to turn the nut (counter-clockwise).

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David Armstrong - '86 240(350k km?), '93 940T(270k km), '89 240(parts source for others) near Toronto

This is an excellent suggestion. I'll try it and see how it goes. If all else fails, I'll try to nut cracker approach. Thanks to all who responded for your advice!

Greg

I guess I did misunderstand. I have used a jack under the tie rod to keep it from spinning.

This suggestion is what did the trick for me. I sprayed a liberal amount of penentrant on the bolt and spent a while working on other things. Raised the floor jack up so that the pad was touching the bottom of the tie rod end, then another pump or two. Used a 19mm socket on a breaker bar to turn the nut ever so slightly to the tighten side, then a quick snap in the other direction. That loosened it up some. Used the impact gun to zing the nuts the rest of the way off. Didn't even need to use a pickle fork to separate the rod end from the spindle. Just pushed it right out with my finger.

You guys rock! Thanks!

Keep some weight on that wheel as you try and loosen the nut.

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alex

I removed a tie rod today and found I had the wrong replacement part for the inner tie rod. While putting the old one back on I had the same problem. You need to use an adjustable wrench to hold the spindle thing while using a 19mm open end spanner wrench to remove the nut. Push opposite each other and that should give a bit more to getting it off. My nut came off on the second or third attempt. I used vise grips to remove the inner tie rod (female).


I learned today that the Cam steering racks use a female inner tie rod up til 87 and then a male one from 88-93. But I also realized at that moment of trying to get away with replacing just the tie rods that the whole strut and ball joint deals need replacing so I'll have to get under there again anyhow.