93 245 145K has a rattling or knocking noise when going over bumps. Rode back there and sounds like it is coming from the wheel well area, possibly on rebound not compression of shocks? I installed a Ipd sway with Bilstein HD about 6 months ago but didn't notice it then, but sounds like it has gotten worse over the last few months. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!!
-Gary
83 245 wagon 235K
93 245 wagon 145K

You can have a shock making that kind of noise but showing no evidence of it on the outside. This goes for new shocks as well as old. Any brand. Its internal to the shock.
Ask me how I know?
Unfortunately, I think, the only way you'll know is if you change it.
It is annoying.

Good luck

Lawrence

Good luck. Keep us posted.

You don't happen to have Blistein Touring shocks on the back, do you?
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1134158

My '91 245 (245k mi) has had a low rumble in the rear end since about 50k miles. Mostly noticable at low speeds (10-20 mph) and more noticable after a long highway trip.

All of the rear suspension bushings have been replaced at least once. Shocks replaced once (time to do that again). I have driven it with people hanging out of the rear doors and tailgate trying to figure out where the sound comes from. We cannot find it.

Can't be too serious, though. The car keeps on moving.

First check the work you did. Perhaps a shock mounting nut or bolt wasn't tightened enough. Next, check for any exhaust or other mechanical interference. The IPD sway bar is larger than the original and the IPD mountings are ovals which allow for some position adjustment. If something has been hitting you should find tell-tale marks.

Next move on to the torque rod bushings, the panard rod bushing (the rod going side to side from axle to body) and finally the lower trailing arm bushings. On our '93 the torque rod bushings were completely shot and replacing them fixed both the creaks and greatly improved directional stability.

John

As Bruce said, torque rods, and also look at the famous Trailing arm rear bushings..A PITA to get out unless you have the other famous thing, the homemade removal tool..I just replaced the torque rod and rear trailing bushings,,No more sounds and the car does not swerve when you go over a crack in the road. Handles like a new one..Tool can be made using the instructions on this board. Do a search or you can get one from IPD, new price is around $189.00. Homemade one runs anywhere from 20 to 40 dollars. Here..http://home.no.net/ebrox/TAB.htm By the way if you replace the bushings I recommend using the poly bushings..
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Max..1989 244 DL 5 Spd., V15 Phase II Cam Bilstein HD, Turbo Swaybars, Poly Bushings all round, Turbo Wheels, Black leather interior, Electric mirrors, LED dash and gauge lights and now NEW ECODES with the turn signals, 1992 black 244 next project

Hi,

Did you put poly trailing arm bushings in your wagon? I just picked up a '91 that needs them. Are the polys easy to install? I thought it just involved cutting out the old rubber bushing and reusing the sleeve.

Thanks,
Dave

Check and make sure the sparetire, jack or anything else is not moving around in the rear quarterpanels.

Also check the torque rod bushings.
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Bruce S. near D.C.