240 DL sedan. I just recently bought this car with a cracked windshield thinking no big deal I will have it replaced and all is well. But the repair place told me that the rust has be resolved first and I am getting different opinions as to whether this is even a correctable problem. Does anyone have any experience around this issue?

Hopefully you have a dry indoor space in which to work. Have the windshield removed, or do it yourself (it's not that difficult) then you will be able to see the extent of the problem. After the glass is out, you will need to remove every trace of the old adhesive from the opening. Tape a drop cloth in place to protect the dash and seats. Scrape as much as you can (try not to go through the paint) then use solvent to remove the remainder. (do this outside if at all possible) Of all the things I've tried, carburetor cleaner seems to work the best. Spray it on a rag, then wipe---don't spray it directly on the goo or you willl have a horrible mess. After the area is clean you can deal with the rust in the usual manner. Hopefully it is only surface rust. Large areas of missing metal would strongly suggest looking for another car, as welding is impractical in this area without A LOT of difficult and time consuming trim removal. Assuming it's not the worst case scenario, and you are dealing with surface rust, scrape off any loose flaky bits, then sand the area with medium (80-100-120) grit sandpaper. Depending on what you are going to coat it with, you may need to take it down to bare bright metal.(if using regular primer) If you are going to use POR 15 or a similar product, some rust can be left, as long as it is smooth and solid. Top coat with paint that matches the rest of the car. If your car is a metallic color the repair is going to show to some extent, as you will probably be brushing the paint on and the metallic particles won't align properly. After everything is fully, thoroughly dry, reinstall the windshield.

If you have to drive the car to and from the glass shop with no windshield, (not a great idea) open all the windows and go VERY slowly. If it's a wagon, prop the tailgate fully open. There is a risk of blowing the back window out with too much air pressure. Better to take the glass out yourself, do the rust repair, then pay someone to come to you to put in the new one.

just to add to the POR -15

I had rust around my 80 windsheild...before POR tried other "rust proofing" they worked so poorly I had water leaking into the car as the rust returned and caused the seal to fail.

In in my experience a "trial" or sample pack from POR is more than adequate to do the surround of a windsheild.

Why oh why don't they make 240s anymore :(
75 245(RIP), 80 244 M45 226K, 87 245 M47 172K

Rust is more terrible and more evil than the Communists, Nazi’s or even the Taliban. It never ever stops, it eats while you sleep, it destroys your very sole, it brings around fights and lots of lost time and money.

I recently have come back from battle with this great enemy. I feel as though I have vanquished it... but I am sure that the fight will come again.

Before I engaged in battle I called a number of body shops to see who would want to do battle and there was not a sole to be found in the Baltimore area that would. So I struck out on my crusade by myself.

First stop was to home depot for wire brushes and a bunch of cheap paint brushes. I found that the fine wire brush was more effective than the course. Then head out to your favorite grocery store for a box of plastic spoons and saran wrap. Then I really opened the wallet and purchased a ton of stuff from POR 15. www.por15.com (free shipping if you give them all your money: www.stoprust.net) What you really need is the metal ready and POR 15 (that is the name of the company but also the name of one of their products) Read all of the directions, twice. Then don your best battle dress, call in reinforcements (friends are best or if you are like me and don't have any then goats, dogs and an alpaca or two will work) and prepare for battle.

This battle might be best fought with the windshield out of the car. Clean metal with wire brushes, wash it with brake clean, soap and water, compressed air (what ever you have, make it clean!) put on several coats of the METAL READY. Once that has dried; paint on the POR 15. As the directions indicate you need to transfer the POR 15 to a smaller container from witch to paint. I found that the POR 15 dries no matter what container you put it in. The plastic spoons are for siring the POR 15 and for transferring it to a smaller container. Saran wrap is to cover POR 15 paint can. I would recommend doubling the saran wrap over when you seal it so as to doubly make sure that no air gets in.


Good luck, God bless and happy New Year!

Andrew

p.s. POR 15 also makes a paint product called Hard Nose. I purchased some of this with the idea of eventually painting a bra on the car.

Just cannot let this go by without comment -

POR 15 also makes a paint product called Hard Nose. I purchased some of this with the idea of eventually painting a bra on the car.

Will you be using a Maidenform or Bali as a model? Worn by whom? Wife blessed with a sense of humor, or _________ ?



Otherwise the procedure should work.

Any thoughts of using a chemical rust-stop of some type?



Goos Luck,

Bob

:>)

Bob,

With me making comments about that I still wonder why my fiancé left me and I can't get a girl? Usually telling them about the warp drive I am trying to put in the Volvo results in no call backs…

In all seriousness I was talking about car bras (ok IPD calls them "masks") http://www.ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.aspx?CategoryID=1567&NodeID=5005&RootID=629

The hard nose would serve the same purpose except bras trap water resulting in the coming of the ultimate evil to my hood... again!

POR 15 is a chemical rust stopper. Take a few minutes and check out the movie at www.por15.com about halfway down in the middle of the page is a link "see the three step system video - click here"

And yes I really am trying to build a warp drive. Still not too sure about this whole flux capacitor thing though…

God bless!

Andrew

Flux capacitors may be in short supply where you are. Houston, TX has the last remaining storehouse of the cars that went back to the future. If you come searching, post here first.

Meanwhile, Hard Nose is probably a fitting name for a car-bra, you think?

Regards,

Bob

:>)

Great write up, Roadrunner!
I can only add a few things.
POR-15 is a urethane based primer which cures with moisture in the air.
It bonds best to a rough surface or flash rust.
Cure time 1-3 hours to tack.
It has little UV resistance,and a finish coat should be used where it
is exposed to sunlight,unless flat black is desired.Silver is available also.
When cured it is rock hard,practically impossible to sand,and so glossy
that adhesion is a problem for subsequent coatings.
Therefore it is highly desirable to add coats when it is tacky,all the way
to the finish coat. In this case probably Volvo touch-up paint.
Metal Ready contains phosphoric acid control it.
A late model {93} windshield will be the most trouble free.
Ken
--
White 86-245 DL, M 46, IPD bars & Wagon Overloads,Commando Bumpers,SS Belly Pan & Air Pickup,Straight-Shot EMT Chassis & Tower Braces,Scorpius Alloys,2 Belt No AC Conversion,Black POR-15 No Glare Front End