Might be able to give a little info on the engine. Give me the number
on the driver's side of the block near the top - first 2 digits will be
cast on the block and will be "49" followed by a bunch more digits, most
or all of which will be stamped into a machined boss following the 49.
The first 6, that is the 49 and four more digits determine the engine model
number.
The identification of the cam will be a letter on the rear end of the shaft.
It will be a C, D, K or possibly some other if it is an OEM cam.
If you can caliper the base circle and the top of the lobe on the cam, you
should find the difference between them on each lobe may be different, which
will indicate a worn lobe. Should be a little over 0.250 lift at the cam for
each one but B20 cams are notorious for wiping out lobes.
If you find worn lobes you should replace the cam AND all the lifters as well.
The D cam is good, as is the K cam or the Isky VV71/IPD 7001 street perf. cam.
Put the steel gears back in - they are much better. The fiber gear will fail.
(It may last quite a while but it will eventually fail.)
From your description of the header it sounds like more of a liability than
an asset! As another has posted, I'd say go with late OEM manifolds and SU
carbs, either HS6 or HIF6.
Be sure and look over your oil pump and the rubber rings that seal the oil pipe
when you put it back together.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!