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Help crank sensor job is turning into a nightmare 200

What I thought was going to be a quick PM job replacing a deteriorating yellow band crank sensor is turning into a nightmare. Bolt came right out. I then preceeded to try and loosen it by tapping it with hammer and screw driver. It did rotate at first. To make a long story short after about 4 hours of trying everything to get the sensor out all I acomplished was to break the wire of and break about half the top off. Having EGR doesn't help as the pipe tends to get in the way. At the end of the day I sprayed on some PB blaster and wrapped it up. Tomorrow I'll put it on the lift and see if I can get it out from underneath. Its starting to feel like its going to become a rear main seal job.

Is there anyone that can give me some possible ways out of this mess. Would some heat with a propane torch help?








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    Help crank sensor job is turning into a nightmare 200

    I have never done this and just thought it would be somethig i might try as a last resort b/4 having to pull the tranny. How about getting a long. 6" maybe coarse deck screw with a philips drive and a long philips bit and maybe an extension(you could tape this whole assembly together ) and try driving this down into the piece remaining in the bracket with a cordless dtrill. If the remains of the sensor can be penetrated it might just give you something to get some grip on and maybe the torque from the drill may even start the remains spinning in the bracket. Just an idea that might sound crazy. Hope everything works out.




    Dan



    I did do this r & r once on my daughter's car(700 but fortunately I had no problems) so I know where you have to reach to get at it








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      Update 200

      Thanks for all the advice and words of encouragement.

      I was able to finaly get the sensor out. What I did was to get a small 6" adjustable wrench on the base of the sensor and just move it back and forth until it loosened enough to remove.

      It really shouldn't be that hard of a job. My biggest mistake was trying to access/remove the sensor from the top working on the drivers side. It turns out I had much better access from the passengers side coming in from the side behind the exhaust manifold. Removing and installing the bolt went smoothly using a 3/8 rachet, 12" extension, 10mm socket and swivel.








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    Help crank sensor job is turning into a nightmare 200

    Hi,

    Not a very helpful post, but I can tell you I cut open the one you see in this pic and found water had followed the harness inside and rusting of the magnetic iron core was the cause of its body swelling about where the bracket holds it. I was a bit concerned at first P B'laster might attack the plastic, but it didn't seem to bother it a bit. My condolences on your EGR pipe obstruction-- I suppose that would probably break if you tried to remove it.




    --
    Art Benstein near Baltimore

    "Wise sayings often fall on barren ground, but a kind word is never thrown away." -Sir Arthur Helps








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      Help crank sensor job is turning into a nightmare 200

      I have a pc. of the covering coming off by the top connector,I covered it w/ a pc.of alum. heat tape.&it seems to get it working again,Did the peeling happen near the place where it connects to the back of the head??
      --
      !965 NSU Prinz,1958&9 VW Beetles,1972 Renault R10,1970 Fiat 850,1972 Chevy Nova,straight 6 3 spd.topped out at115mph,1982 VW Rabbit,1987 Ford Econoline Straight 6 Supervan,445,472 miles before it flamed up!1989 Ford Taurus Wagon 3.0V6,took 18"of snow to s








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      Help crank sensor job is turning into a nightmare 200

      If yama's CPS body has swollen due to internal corrosion then that may be the answer. Find a chemical like carb or brake cleaner or maybe heat that will soften the plastic case and let him remove the sensor. Dan








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    Help crank sensor job is turning into a nightmare 200

    I would not waste your time trying to get to it from underneath, your best bet is to do just what you did, spray some PB on it and walk away.

    Mark








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    Help crank sensor job is turning into a nightmare 200

    Continued patience and lots of PB Blaster. The body is plastic so it should not be rusted to the pot metal mount. There may be corrosion at the aluminum insert of the CPS and the metal mount, maybe try to slide a single edge razor blade under the mounting tab. Or a small angled pliers gently trying to rotate in the mount. I'd stay away from hammers and screw drivers prying on it. Good luck. Dan







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