Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum

INDEX FOR 2/2026(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 11/2009 120-130 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Checking My 'New' B20 120-130 1968


Hi all, tomorrow I will be replacing the cam gear cover on my 'new' B20 with one machined for a neoprene seal. While I am doing this is there any checks (visual or mechanical) I can do to make sure the cam gears are OK? I seem to recall a thread that talked about a brass shim or washer that was responsible for camshaft end play, (thrust) and wonder what this end play should be. Any other checks that you would do before instalation? The engine in question reportedly, and looks like it, has had a pretty complete rebuild in the fairly recent past.

TIA & Cheers!
OK








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Checking My 'New' B20 120-130 1968

Assuming you have an additional thrust plate, it can't hurt. I would check the oil squirter and make sure everyting is lined up and functioning. Other than that, be very careful with the oil pan gasket and you should be just fine.

Craig








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Checking My 'New' B20 120-130 1968

Just push/pull the cam gear back and forth and see if there is any appreciable slack. Slack means a worn thrust plate.

Be careful replacing the timing cover. The seal won't particularly want to center itself on the crank snout because of the upward pressure of the oil pan. Uncentered seals will wear quickly and start leaking. So snug a couple of bolts and visually check the seal, nudge as appropriate, before bolting it in more firmly.
--
'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic 245 + turbo








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Checking My 'New' B20 120-130 1968

I've found that the seal will more or less center itself, due to the tension of the circular spring it contains. Lubricate it with clean motor oil and ease it over the end of the crankshaft. Then, CAREFULLY install all the bolts around the perimeter of the cover (but NOT the two oil pan bolts) and get them finger tight. Check the centering of the seal again, just to make sure, and tighten the bolts in stages. Finally, after all the cover bolts are fully tightened, install and tighten the two bolts that go up through the oil pan. I've used this method several times and never had a problem.

It is also important that the seal be pressed squarely into the cover and not cocked at an angle.








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Checking My 'New' B20 120-130 1968

Thanks for the centering tip, how much slack should there be (I have Mag based indicators so this is easy to measure). Is the thrust plate a Volvo only item or are they available other places?

TIA & Cheers!
OK








  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Checking My 'New' B20 120-130 1968

Cam end play is supposed to be .003". Thrust / retaining plates are available from IPD and RPR, for a start.

It's much better to put the main seals on before the oil pan goes on. If the engine is out of the car, I'd definitely pull the pan.







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.