The lock relays are invisible to mere mortals. No, really. They're hidden pretty well, but they are exactly where they tell you in those cheesy diagrams giving general locations.

You will be able to access the plugs for them, and probably push them up and unclip them, if you unscrew your whole center console.

They're under the center vents, but unless you're committed to removing the ducting behind the vents (i.e. take radio out, center vents out, and wrestle with it) then there's no access.

They're clipped to the crossbar that forms the bottom of the dash, right over the middle of the center console.

I'd get the two screws out of the bottom of the console, right at carpet level in front of the shifter, and then the 2 quarter-turn fasteners and the two screws on the sides of the console box. The wiring and stuff will pull back as long as you're gentle. Reach up behind it and you can get at everything. It's a bit of a rat's nest in there.

Here's something to look for before you pull out any of the relays. The power to them is from a green wire with a single connector, over to the left side of the console top, more or less right behind your defroster switch or seatbelt light. There should be 12V there all the time. If not, check your fuses and also check for a green wire pulled off at a fuse terminal.

To isolate the problem to the door wiring and switches, there is a three pin plug up over the driver's left knee with the wiring to the door running through it. You'll find a black, a red, and a green wire in it. Unplug this, and try actuating the locks by using a jumper wire or paperclip. Connect red to black to unlock, green to black to lock. Black is ground, and the other two should read voltage until they're grounded. Grounding one energizes one lock relay, grounding the other energizes the other lock relay.

It's not uncommon or impossible for the whole problem to be in the door wiring. Wires get damaged in the door hinge, especially by people trying to pull aftermarket speaker wires through, and the switch around the lock tumblers seems to be prone to breakage. It's wired in parallel with the switch in the lock rod for the driver's door. There are no other switches to activate the power locks, and there is no power lock motor in the driver's door on a standard 240.

I've added keyless entry to a few of these cars and while the circuit is VERY simple electrically, the installation does require adding a lock motor to the drivers door, and connecting it to the blue and yellow lock wires coming from the relays. You can find one of these wiring harnesses with a 2-pin blue plug right under the glovebox on the passenger side. If you were to add a power lock to the driver's door, you'd connect blue to blue and yellow to yellow to make it work correctly. As far as I can tell, the relays have no trouble handling the little additional current.
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::: Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: 92 244 ::: 90 745GL ::: 90 745T ::: 84 242DL ::: 90 745T Parts ::: Used to have : 86 244DL, 87 244DL, 91 244, 88 244GL, 88 744GLE, 82 245T, 86 244DL, 87 244DL, 88 245DL, 89 244DL!