You have to de-mount and pull back the center console.

One sheet metal screw on each side on the front part of the console. These are underneath the vertical sides of the knee bolster covers under the dash. If you're careful, you can gently pull back the vertical sides and remove the screws without taking out the knee bolster pieces.

Two screws in the back part of the center console inside the 'cubbyhole' area at the bottom under the removable plastic 'trap door'. You pry this out gently with a screwdriver.

Once you've removed the four screws, you can move the center console. You may have to take the ashtray out also, and you will have to move the gear shift down a few notches to get the square hole in the console to clear it. you don't have to take the console out, but just get it back/up enough to see under the shift indicator plate. That's where you're bulb of interest is. It's on the driver's side, sticking straight up into a light pipe gizmo under the shift indicator plate. You'll see the two wires coming down from it.

Just pull down the thing with the two wires, without pulling the wire off, and the bulb will come out in its square holder. Pull the old bulb out and put a new one in. The holder just sort of snaps into the light pipe.

The bulb may be a dealer item. It's tiny and has no base, just the wires folded around the side of the glass capsule. When you do this job, you'll want to make sure you have the right bulb.

The job may sound hard or complicated, but it's not. The only difficulty is dealing with these plastic pieces gently so as not to break anything.