I just read a bunch of the old posts with the help of the search engine and it left me with the same question.

So, the engine doesn't self-diagnose so I can't pull codes to find the problem. Does that mean I'm at the mercy of a mechanic? I mean, how would they find the problem without codes? Is there a tool out there they use to attach to the secret plug?


Or are they going to have to know something and ask me the details?

And, um, in case it would help me find my problem: When I slow down to stop at stoplights it would sputter and then fade out. Giving it more gas by pressing on the accelerator did not help. Oh, and the other day it took several tries to get it to start.

It's been a while since I've been here but you guys have ehlped me tons in the past, so TIA.

I think I'm having the same problem as you - at least I have the same vehicle with similar issues... there is method of retrieving codes for LH-Jet 2.2, it's in the FAQ. You have to build your own test LED and the system is really primitive compared to, say, LH-Jet 2.4.

I'm intrested in hearing more about your problem though, because maybe we're having the same issue. Mine will start to sputter as if it's not getting enough gas and eventually die. It will restart and die immediately after this. If I wait for 5 - 15 minutes it will work again. The frequency of this is related to ambient temperatures, the warmer it is the sooner it happens. Does this sound anything like what you're experiencing?

Yuppers, that sounds like the problem exactly.

I don't know that I'm willing to go through all that trouble to make the thingie. If you do, lemme know what the problem is, would you?

I found several crappy hoses that need replacing including one to the turbo unit. Hopefully that'll take care of the problem.

So far I've swapped out the FPR, Resistor pack, power stage + ignition coil. I've also jumpered the overpressure switch and cleaned my throttle body. While this hasn't been completely fruitless (my cruise control works great now!), it has failed to cure the main problem.

I'll let you know if I find out anything new, I picked up the components for that tester thingy on Friday.


-M.R.

I just finished changing out three vacuum hoses. Maybe that'll do the trick.

Okay, I got the test light done. Total cost was less than 10$ and two burnt fingers. The way you can screw it up is if you put the LED backwards. So I had to build it twice, of course :)

I went for a test drive but got no error codes, probably because it's only 65F today. I'll leave it hooked up and see if I can get something out of it on my way home tomorrow afternoon.

Keep in mind that the codes are only for the ignition system, not the fuel injection system.

I'm aware of that - but hey, I'll take any help I can get. LH 2.4's diagnostic box is like a Cray supercomputer when compared to this thing.

Error codes are no replacement for proper fault tracing.

They're going to start with the basics. Plugs, wires, cap/rotor. Dirty throttle body/ICV? Kickdown cable out of adjustment? Intake leaks?(turbos really, really, really hate any type of air leak.)
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

Anyone?

Honest, I scoured the FAQ for over an hour and did quite the extensive search on previous threads. I've seen nothing.

Help? My car runs, as this is an intermitent problem, but I need to get it fixed and I'd rather not take it to a mechanic if I can help it.

If I understand your first post correctly, you have no codes? Or, do you mean you do not know how to pull the codes? If the latter is the case, check the 700/900 FAQ; it is all there.

As far as dying and hard starts, there are many possibilities. Try general maintenance; new fuel and air filter, new plugs, clean electrical connections at the fuel pump relay, check for frayed wires, and just a good cleaning while paying attention to possible loose connections and vacuum lines. Listen for vacuum leaks or ticking sounds that shouldn't be there.

I have never owned a turbo anything so I can't help you much with that. But it seems to me that excessive pressure might cause a problem. Isn't there an "excess pressure" safety switch? How old is the catalytic convertor?
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Mr. Shannon DeWolfe -- (I've taken to using Mr. because my name tends to mislead folks on the WWW. I am a 51 year old fat man ;-) -- KD5QBL

I have no idea how old the catalytic converter is, nor do I know if there's an 'excess pressure' switch.

As I stated above, there are some crappy hoses that I'm going to replace. Thanks for the post.

The overpressure switch is mounted on your coolant reservoir, flat round thing about the size of a half dollar coin with 2 black/yellow wires + one vacuum hose going to it. I tested mine by jumpering the connector so that the switch was completely bypassed.


-M.R.